Our patio pool deck has been a hot mess ever since we flooded in 2017. The water sat for 3-4 days and caused a ton of damage. We were left with a lot of smaller, chipped areas leaving exposed concrete underneath, and left with larger pieces of cool decking lifted off leaving wide, open holes. It was a constant reminder of the flood every singe time we walked outside. And I knew hiring someone to resurface it, was simply not in our budget. So, it was time to take care of the beast once and for all!! DIY Painting Pool Deck Tutorial.
Here are some pictures of our patio.
NOTE: This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links. Please see my privacy and disclosure policies below. Thanks for your support. π
DIY Painting Pool Deck Tutorial
Information:
First Things First: This is not an easy project. It is possible, but it definitely takes a lot of planning, patience, and physical work.
I just want to be upfront and completely honest about this part.
Second: I am not a masonry expert (really….. lol!!) so you will have to tweak your concrete repair and patching to your own liking.
Third: This project is not a quick process if working solo. The project duration for me: ~ 5 days working (for one person), 3 days to sit/cure.
Fourth: We spent ~ $575.00 on this project for ~1,365 total sq. ft. Much better than $7,000 – $12,000 to have it resurfaced.
***Fifth: Once you stain (paint) your cool deck, it will no longer be cool. If you still want that cooler-to-touch feeling, you will need to repaint your cool deck with another “cool deck paint.”
SUPPLIES:
We found our supplies at Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, or already had them on hand.
- Push Broom
- Water Hose
- Pressure Washer (Ryobi – our’s)
- TSP and Bleach
- Deck Scrub Brush
- (1) 2- Gallon bucket
- (1 or 2) 5 -Gallon bucket(s)
- Watering Can
- Wheel barrow or here
- Rubber Gloves
- Mask
- Painters Tape
- Protective Paper or Covering
- Concrete Bonding Adhesive or here
- Brush for bonding
- Quikrete Sand/Topping Mix (Portland Cement Mix)
- Cement Patch – small areas or here for large patching areas
- Arrowhead Trowel
- Flat Trowel
- Masonry Brush
- Sponge – wiping cement
- (1) Etcher
- 2″/3″ paint brushes set
- Paint Roller Tray
- Extendable Paint Roller Rod
- (1) 6-pack 3/8″ Nap Paint Roller Covers
- (11 Gallons) Patio Stain – Behr Solid Concrete Stain: Spanish Parador #PFC – 32. Or you could also buy the 5-gallon drum if easier, but it is heavy.
***NOTE*** This solid concrete stain goes on more like paint. I just wanted to note that so you don’t think it will look like a semi-transparent stained concrete.
It will be a solid-looking painted surface. Ok – carry on π
Steps for Painting Pool Deck Tutorial
5 STEPS:
- Pressure (power) wash
- Clean with TSP
- Patch/Repair with Concrete *(sanding – optional)*
- Etch
- Stain/(Paint)
STEP #1: Pressure Wash Patio
The first thing you will want to do is remove all of your patio or pool deck furniture and put it somewhere safe, like the garage.
Then you will pressure wash your patio or pool deck making sure not to miss any spots.
TIP: This process is probably one of the most important steps in the cleaning process – just a FYI.
Pressure washing is the only way to really get oil, dirt, and grime out of the spray deck texture. If the decking is dirty, the stain will not stick.
So the cleaner it is, the better the adhesion.
Here is what our patio looked like when pressure washing – huge difference.
We have the Ryobi 2900 PSI, and it really does amazing work.
This step will take awhile. I did not put the round attachment head on for the spray deck (just in case more decking popped up), but you could use it for a standard concrete patio.
You can go immediately to step #2 if you’re not tired, or wait until the next day (like me – lol)!
STEP #2: Clean With TSP
After you have pressure washed your patio, you will clean your spray deck (patio) with a TSP (Trisodium Phosphate)/ bleach/water mixture.
And yes, I know you have already “cleaned” the patio spray deck, but only with water so far. Now, you need the TSP to break up and get rid of the oil, dirt, and grime that is really caked into the concrete.
The mixture for ONE gallon is:
(1/2 cup TSP)/ to (1 cup bleach)/ to 1 gallon warm water
TIP: Since you will make this mixture and put it into a 2 gallon watering can, my advice is to double the ratio (for 2-gallon mixture), or make a 5-gallon mixture in a 5-gallon bucket.
Instructions for TSP:
Once you have your mixture, pour it into your 2-gallon watering can. Then don your mask and gloves and:
- Gently sprinkle the mixture over a 4′ x 4′ area, and let it sit for about 10 mins.
- Then you will take your deck scrub brush and work it into those grooves to loosen up the oil and dirt.
- Rinse it immediately (DO NOT LET IT SIT) with water. Then continue to do this same TSP mixture/sprinkle/scrub/rinse process throughout your entire pool deck.
Don’t forget to rinse your deck brush in a 5-gallon bucket of water in between sections when scrubbing.
*Let your pool deck or patio dry overnight.*
STEP #3: Repair & Patch Cement
This step is only for those of you who need to do some pool deck (spray deck) concrete repair.
When you’re pool deck is dry, it is time to patch and repair some of those chipped or broken pieces.
This is my personal recommendation:
- A) If you have large pieces broken off, use the sand/topping mixture.
- B) If you only have small pieces chipped off, use the pre-mixed cement mixture.
Here are directions for Part A – Large Area Concrete Repair
Supplies picture below.
Cement Mixture Process: Portland Sand/Topping Mix
Mix the sand/mix topping according to the package directions.
- For my 60 lb. bag, I poured about 2/3 of it into my wheelbarrow.
- Then I added 6 pints (=12 cups ) of water AND BONDING agent and began mixing with a rake and hoe, until it was well blended.
- Next I added the rest of the 1/3 sand mixture and 3 pints (6 cups) of water.
- Blend all of it together until it has an oatmeal consistency.
TIP: This mixing process took roughly 20-30 minutes. It does require a little man power when pushing around – just a fyi.
*Mine needed more water – so I added some while working to get a runnier “oatmeal consistency” than the one pictured below.*
Application of concrete repair.
- Dampen area with water using your small paint brush.
- Put a handful of cement mixture onto your arrowhead (angled) trowel and fill the gaps/cracks of your pool deck.
- Spread it out by pressing down, and add more mixture as needed.
- Use the flat head trowel to smooth it out, and level it.
- Let the mixture dry for a couple of minutes, and then gently wipe with wet damp sponge.
- Use the masonry brush to add texture so it mimics the pool deck look.
TIP: This pool painting company (ABN Painting) has a great tutorial if you want to see where I found some of my information. They demonstrate several different ways to get the “spray deck” texture with the 2 different trowels and the brush-method.
Check out their website or youtube channel – they provide a ton of knowledge and very clear instruction on the entire painting and repairing of pool decks.
Instructions for Part B – Small Area Concrete Repair
Stir your pre-mixed concrete and apply it using the same method as above for the larger areas. This method is SO much easier.
Here is a picture so you can see the difference in the 2 different cement mixes. The darker gray is the sand/topping mix, and the lighter gray is the pre-mixed cement.
TIP: The pre-mixed cement dries a lot faster than the sand/topping mix, so work quickly when using it.
*Let all concrete patches dry overnight.*
***NOTE***
SANDING: This part is optional. I sanded my areas with 80-grit sandpaper because I didn’t go a great job on the top part of my concrete patches.
To be honest – I got tired and lazy (ugh!) because we had so many areas to patch. As a result, the top parts of my concrete weren’t smooth and clean.
Remember when I said that I wasn’t a masonry expert – no kidding – right? But the sanding made a huge difference, and looked (and felt) smooth.
Rinse off with water hose and let dry.
STEP #4: Etch
Follow the guidelines and instructions on the container.
- Pour one gallon etcher and add 4 gallons of water into your 5 gallon bucket.
- Then simply pour this (1:4 ratio) mixture into the 2-gallon watering can.
- Now, sprinkle it onto a 3′ x 3′ section of your pool deck or patio.
- Let this sit for about 10 minutes.
- Next scrub with your deck brush, working into all of the grooves.
- Then you can rinse it all off.
*Let dry overnight.*
You can do it – you’re almost at the finish line!!
STEP #5: Stain/(Paint)
This is the easiest step of the entire process – thank goodness -right?
Before you begin this last step, make sure you cover any exposed pavers, fencing, painted columns, etc, with paper covering and painter’s tape.
Now when everything is protected and covered you are ready to add your stain.
First, make sure to stir your stain (in your gallon can or 5-gallon drum) VERY well.
Then you will hand paint all of the areas around your pool, expansion joints, columns, etc. that you can’t reach with your paint rollers.
TIP: Use economical or cheaper paint brushes for this part. The pool deck texture is very rough, and you don’t want to waste good paint brushes on this project.
Since our pool spray deck is at our back patio, I needed to paint the foundation concrete area and that jointed area also.
This took a little longer than I originally planned, but it had to be done.
Once all of your hand painted areas are done, you will apply your stain with the 3/8″ nap paint rollers.
TIP: I went through 3 paint rollers per application, so a total of 6 paint rollers for the 2 coats of paint. The rough decking will mess up the rollers as the job progresses.
When it feels like you are having to press down really hard to get the paint to stick, it’s time to change out those rollers – trust me!!
Apply 2 coats with brush and paint rollers, and you are done!! WOOHOO!!
Let it dry overnight, and then pull off all of your tape and paper covering.
Then wait at least 72 hours before putting patio furniture back on.
Disclaimer: Mine did have some “islands” – LOL!! Like I stated above, I needed to smooth out my concrete patches better.
But they aren’t noticeable unless you point them out, and overall I am proud of my work!
Now, it’s time to get the rest of my patio refresh completed! Post coming soon!
Have a Great Summer Everyone!!
Love & Summer Hugs π
Recommended Posts:
DIY Spray Painting Wrought Iron Fence Tutorial
22 Stunning Black Front Door Inspirations
Best DIY Front Yard Landscaping Ideas: On a Budget
33 Stunning Outdoor Seating Inspirations
9 Affordable Ways To Update Your Outdoor Living Space
10 Ultimate Outdoor Summer Party Essentials
14 Easy Patriotic & Memorial Day Decorating Ideas
DIY Painted Flower Pot Tutorial: Blue Top
Painting Garage Doors Tutorial
12 Comments
Fantastic blog, thank you so much for showing us
Thanks for the kind feedback!!
hugs – jael π
What paint/stain did you use? And where did you get it? Thanks!
Hi Miranda! Just go to number 27 in the supplies list and all the information is there for you!
Hugs- Jaelπ
Looks great! Your hard work is evident in the finished project. Can you write another blog in how to get motivated to do this project!?!?π
Haha – exactly! Gook Luck Kevan!
hugs – jael π
Hi Jael!
Your patio is beautiful! It looks like you painted your plastic contraction joints. I would really like to paint mine instead of taping them off and leaving white. Has the paint chipped at all on yours?
Hi Michele! Thanks for the kind feedback. My expansion joints are holding up great with our paint. Painting them the same color will make your area feel like one cohesive space, whereas painting them a separate color will give you separated blocks or grids. It’s just up to you. Good Luck with your project π
jael
Best tutorial so far. Excellent. Your research and hard work paid off beaufully.
Hi Kelli! Thanks – it was worth it when it was ALL finished lol!
Hugs –
Jael π
Did you do a seal afterwards?
Hi Shirley! You don’t seal it.
If I remember correctly, it needs to be able to breath.
And I think it’s left unsealed so that you could put additional coats on (years down the road), without having to strip off the sealer.
Hugs – Jael π