Adding a Shiplap Feature Wall to Living Room

With all of the renovations that we have done to our house, the shiplap accent wall in the living room is definitely one of my top 3 favorites!!   Besides our master bath remodel, kitchen remodel, and opening up our kitchen walls, the design of this shiplap feature wall has significantly transformed the room.  And today, I am excited to finally be sharing our shiplap living room accent wall with you!  Adding A Shiplap Feature Wall to Living Room.

***This post is a little long – sorry!!  But it covers the shiplap accent wall, painted white brick fireplace, and the shiplap bookshelf built-in.  So grab a drink and a snack….. and let’s get to it!!***

If you want to learn more about what shiplap is, or want more shiplap inspiration pictures and ideas,  try The Shiplap Guide:  Shiplap, Tongue & Groove, and Plank Walls and 41 Shiplap Ideas:  Not Just for Walls.

***NOTE*** This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links.  Please see my privacy and disclosure policies below.  Thanks for your support 🙂

***Have a question for me?  Shoot me a comment.  I tried to cover everything we did in the room, but I might have forgotten something – LOL!!  I’d love to help out any way I can!


So, here is what the room used to look like.  This picture was taken a couple of weeks before we flooded during Hurricane Harvey for our home fall tour 2017 post (this was my 2nd post ever– so it’s – well – looks like a new blogger did it – LOL)!!  Hopefully, I’ve gotten a little better!  



AFTER:   Complete transformation of the room – right?  To see more of this spring and summer living room post click Spring Home Tour 2019.


THE STARTING PLACE:  Why did we decide to add the entire feature wall in shiplap?

When we flooded from the hurricane, we had to demo the sheetrock up to 4 ft. high on the entire 1st floor of our house.   So, we knew there were going to be some changes to that fireplace wall and niche anyway.  

Here are some pictures of what it looked like, to give you an idea of what we were working with.


In the picture below, you can tell that our living wall is in line with the foyer wall – one continuous flat wall.  But….not for long.

And then we were told by the mold inspector that everything below 4 ft high should be removed also for safety reasons.  So this meant all kitchen, laundry, & bathrooms cabinets AND the fireplace mantel would need to be removed.   UGH!! -( but we kind of knew this was going to happen).

Since we were already planning to replace the armoire niche with a shiplap bookshelf built-in, (see inspiration pic #1 below), we knew we needed a new design plan for the entire wall. 

INSPIRATION PICTURES:  What did we want the shiplap feature wall design to look like?

Inspiration picture #1:  This was my favorite picture for the shiplap built-in bookshelf – love it Forever Cottage!


And since we could not add another matching bookshelf to the left side of our fireplace (our laundry room is behind that wall), our *contractor* (*see NOTE below pictures*) suggested adding the shiplap to the entire wall – yes please!! – and so the decision was made right then and there.    

So, I went back to my pinterest boards, and picked out a couple more shiplap fireplace wall inspiration pics.  And I fell in LOVE!!

Inspiration pictures below:  Don’t you just love both of these designs by Studio-McGee and Max Crosby Construction, respectively?   They are both so dreamy – right?

Inspiration picture #2:  Incredible!!  Studio-McGee does amazing work.


Inspiration picture #3:  I love everything about this feature wall design by Max Crosby Construction!!  

source: (max crosby construtction)

Now, that I had our feature wall ideas ready, we could begin planning out the actual layout of the fireplace and bookshelf.

I knew that I would take the white brick fireplace and mantel from Studio-McGee’s picture and the fireplace brick surround design from Max Crosby’s picture, and merge them together.  Voila- it’s go time!!


*** NOTE ***  That same contractor (who abandoned our job) tried to act like I added this shiplap wall to our contract without him knowing anything about it…..when he was the one who suggested it. 

So, Please be careful when hiring out – and get everything – in writing!   Whether you’re adding OR removing items on your contract, get WRITTEN and SIGNED (by both parties) change order slips. 

OK – Let’s Get To The Good Stuff!!


I am going to break this post into 4 Categories & give you a project list to make scrolling easier.  Some of the projects were going on at the same time, so I’ll be showing the overall progress with some overlapping pictures.


  1.  Shiplap Bookshelf  Built-In Remodel
  2.  Fireplace Remodel 
  3.  Shiplap Accent Wall Design
  4.  Brick Fireplace Surround 


  1.   Square off Rounded Niche
  2.   Add Lower Cabinet for Built-In
  3.   Bump out Fireplace Wall
  4.   Add New Mantel, Fireplace Gas Door
  5.   Add Shiplap to Bookshelf, Fireplace and Wall
  6.   Add Brick Surround
  7.   Add Trim and Corner Pieces
  8.   Add Built-in Upper Shelves, Lower Cabinet Shelf
  9.   Prime & Paint
  10.   Add Hardware to Bookshelf 
  11.   Add New Ceiling Fan


The first thing the workers started on was squaring off the existing arches of the niche, and then building the lower cabinet of the bookshelf. 

***NOTE*** Dimensions are included at the VERY END of the post….if you want more info on them.

Here it is in stages….

#1 Before


#2 Squared off Corners


#3 Adding Shiplap


#4 Adding Trim and Corner Pieces


#5 Adding Doors – Now ready for puttying holes, priming and painting.

Picture below.  And with the lower shelf under the cabinet – for electronics, basket for organizing movies, and space for extra throw blankets & toss pillows.

***NOTE*** I had the carpenter build a shelf like this in my kitchen cabinets also.  They are a must-have in large, tall cabinets so you don’t waste any space.  Plus, the shelves make it so much easier to stack smaller household items on top, and to tuck larger items underneath.



I was so excited to remodel our fireplace, but had NO idea how many parts really made up the entire fireplace unit.   Basically, you are designing the whole thing, piece by piece!!

***NOTE*** Dimensions are included at the VERY END of the post….if you want more info on them.

So, to make this a little easier for you to visualize, I added this picture below with fireplace terminology.

Source: (via google)


Remember that “starting out” picture with the LONG, flat wall from the foyer to the living room?  Well, it was time to address that problem, and find a  solution for it.

So, the first thing I wanted to change, was to bump out the overmantel 6″ from the wall.  Since that existing flat wall has bothered me for like 14 years – LOL , I couldn’t wait to add some detail to it!!

The bump out creates architectural interest to a flat, builder-grade wall, and gives the room a much needed natural focal point.   Now, the fireplace is a defined element instead of a combined element of the wall.

***NOTE*** Dimensions are included at the VERY END of the post….if you want more info on them.

Here is the front view….

I’m going to combine the shiplap feature wall and fireplace wall, since my pictures were overlapping each other.


The shiplap accent wall went up a lot of faster than anticipated, once they did their test run on how to install it.  Since this was the first time the workers had installed shiplap, I had to do a little digging to know what to tell them – that’s how the Shiplap guide:  shiplap, tongue & groove, and plank walls post came to be!!

Now, that I knew using actual shiplap boards (not the other 2 methods) was the look I was going for, the project could begin.

And even though our contractor and subs told us they “could not find any shiplap boards anywhere because of the hurricane wood shortage”…… (again – whole other story-ugh!!) I found some anyway – haha!!  Thank you Home Depot – love the shiplap.

Sometimes, you just have to take matters in your own hands – am I right?  Where there is a will ladies – there IS A WAY!!

Pictured below is a closeup of the shiplap boards, and the “gap” between them.  The workers used a scrap piece of plywood (for the spacing between boards) each time, and the measurement is just a little less than 1/4″ gap.

We tried a couple of different gap sizes to see which one I liked the most, and the bigger gap appealed to me more.  It is really personal preference – but I wanted to see the lines for added texture.

***NOTE***  Make sure the line from your bookshelf (right side) is even with your fireplace overmantel (middle) and with your shiplap feature wall (left side).  You can tell that they are using that bottom piece on the mantel shelf to keep everything in line.



Once the shiplap is started, the line is just followed all of the way down the wall.  Even if they had to cut smaller pieces around the fireplace overmantel bump out, they would continue matching up the lines.

And pictured below…. that overmantel is only 6″ deep, but it now defines the actual fireplace – right?  As a result of the bump out, the eye has a natural “stopping point” which creates a natural focal point!!


My idea for the fireplace design was to use the inspiration pictures (above)….and combine them a little bit.  I wanted to have a “simple and clean lines” look like the Studio-McGee picture, and then use the brick fireplace surround design like the Max Crosby picture – only painted white.  

Since we knew the bricks were going to be painted, the contractor just used plain bricks.

If your are looking for more brick fireplace inspiration, try 30 Stunning White Brick Fireplace Ideas and 35 Natural Gorgeous Natural Brick Fireplace Ideas.   

Can you tell I am a visual person…… or noticed my “inspiration pics” taped on the wall throughout the living room – haha!!  There’s one in the bookshelf portion also!

You can tell from the picture above and below, that we were trying out different brick designs to see which direction we wanted the bricks to go (vertical vs. horizontal).

And I have to admit that I never knew sooooo much detail would go into the brick fireplace surround…..and the different brick placement DID create different looks – what??!!  Cra-zee!!


We were planning to add trim (plinth), kind of like feet to the legs of the fireplace also, but unfortunately that didn’t happen. 

We were so rushed at this point because of the contractor problem, that we basically just gave up 🙁  The plinth (feet) would have had a little detail trim of some sort, but oh well – life’s moving on!! 


One thing that I did pick out, and still love is this clean, simple trim piece (white piece below).  We also used it on the wrapped beams when we opened the kitchen walls, and it just adds a crisp clean line.




We used Sherwin Williams Snowbound (SW 7004), oil-based paint for everything (shiplap feature wall, brick fireplace, & shiplap boookshelf).  The painters primed it all first, and then sprayed it twice with the snowbound.

But….. the paint job was not good the first time around……so the contractor brought in a second painter to RE-PAINT everything again!! Nightmare!!  

So it does have about 3-4 coats of paint on it.  

***NOTE***  The puttying or covering of all the nails holes and trim pieces was very time consuming – just a FYI. 

Can you tell this was not the most pleasant process?? haha!!










Of course, I couldn’t resist adding my “love & hugs” accent pieces in here – front and center – LOL!!  It’s like a ray of sunshine for me 🙂 


It’s the little things….  I love the way that they installed the shiplap lining the ceiling and all of the side walls.  Since the niche was deep (from the armoire), the bookshelf shelves wouldn’t have looked right.

So, they made the lower cabinet large (to fill the space), and then filledin the “extra space” with the shiplap.  It’s my favorite part of the entire bookshelf!

Who knew such a small detail would add the biggest impact?




Well, what do you think?  Do you think it transforms the room?  Let me know – I’d love to hear some feedback!

Will you try to add a shiplap or other feature wall design to your home, and if so where would you install it?

Have a Great Week!! 

Love & Hugs 🙂

Want more brick fireplace inspiration?  Try 30 Stunning White Brick Fireplace Ideas and 35 Natural Gorgeous Natural Brick Fireplace Ideas. 

If you want to learn more about what shiplap is, or want more shiplap inspiration pictures and ideas,  try The Shiplap Guide:  Shiplap, Tongue & Groove, and Plank Walls and 41 Shiplap Ideas:  Not Just for Walls.

Want to see more of our home remodeling makeovers try Master Bath Remodel, How to Plan your Kitchen Remodel and Coastal Farmhouse Master Bedroom.

Ready for Back to School Planning?  Try Top 10 Best Desks for Students or Back to School Party for Teachers (or Kids).


  1.   Shiplap – Home Depot – (9/16 in. x 5 1/4 in. x 8 ft)
  2.   Corner Trim – Fireplace 
  3.   Trim – bookshelf & wall –  1″ x 3″ x 8 ft., 1″ x 2″ x 8 ft.
  4.   Hardware pulls
  5.   Ceiling Fan
  6.   Paint – Sherwin Williams -OIL BASED – Snowbound SW 7004
  7.   Fireplace Dimensions (see below)
  8.   Bookshelf Dimensions (see below)
  9.   Living Room Accent Wall Dimensions (see below)


#1 – Shiplap – 6 pieces/box                                                                        #2 –  Corner Fireplace Molding

ARAUCO 9/16 in. x 5-1/4 in. x 8 ft. Primed Pine Nickel Gap Ship Lap Board (6-Pieces Per Box)Hampton Bay 1 in. x 91.5 in. Outside Corner Molding in Warm White







#3 – Trim – (1 in. x 3 in. x 8 ft), (1 in. x 2 in. x 8 ft)                                      #4 – Bookshelf Cabinet Pulls                                                                

1 in. x 3 in. x 8 ft. Furring Strip Board

Liberty 3-3/4 in. (96 mm) Center-to-Center Stainless Steel Bar Drawer Pull (4-Pack)







#5 – Ceiling Fan

Home Decorators Collection Hanlon 52 in. Integrated LED Indoor/Outdoor Stainless Steel Ceiling Fan with Light Kit and Wall Control


























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7 STEPS: Painting Your Bedroom Trim DIY

HI everyone!!  I know that I haven’t been posting as much as I would like this 2019 (sorry) – so I thought I would share what I have been up to.  Painting, PAINTing, and yes – more PAINTING!!   So what could I possibly have to paint – I have a new downstairs – right??   But….what about the upstairs? Yep, look at the picture below right…..YIKES!!  And that’s how you get 7 STEPS:  Painting Your Bedroom Trim DIY.  

There are three main reasons for this painting craziness:  1 – Since we flooded, we changed all of our old trim color downstairs, and 2-  Because we flooded, cash-ola for hiring painters is nada – and 3- Remember how I tend to have these genius new year resolutions of “getting organized??” LOL!!

If you put these 3 circumstances together  (and you are slightly insane) you decide to paint all of the upstairs trim, closets, ceilings, doors, and vanities yourself!!    So, here are my 7 STEPS:  Painting Your Bedroom Trim DIY.

***Note***  This post contains affiliate links.  Please see my privacy and disclosure policies below for more information.  Thanks so much for your support.

Want to see more pictures of the flood and our house before & after?  Click  Hurricane Harvey Flooded (part 1) and the Makeover (part 2).  Want to shop our home?  Click here or on the shop our home tab now on the home page!



  1.   Prep area
  2.   Paint All Baseboards & Door Frames – 1st coat
  3.   Paint entire CLOSET & ceiling – 1st coat (latex)
  4.   Paint CLOSET baseboards – 2nd coat (oil)
  5.   Paint bedroom BASEBOARDS – 2nd coat
  6.   Paint bedroom CEILING  (one coat only)
  7.   Paint All DOORS (2 coats)



***For this project I used:  Sherwin Williams  Snowbound  (SW 7004)***

  • OIL-BASED SEMI-GLOSS:  Bedroom – Baseboards, Door Frames, All Doors
  • LATEX SATIN:  Closet – (ceiling, walls, shelves, door frames)
  • LATEX FLAT:  Bedroom Ceiling

These are the paint quantities that I have used at my house (upstairs):

*** 1 gallon oil-based paint covers ~3-4 rooms and doors ***

*** 1 gallon latex satin covers ~ 4 closets ***

*** 1 gallon latex flat covers ~ 2 ceilings ***


Please do NOT skip this tip!!  Oil-based paint is very strong smelling and could make you sick.  Open a couple of windows while working and put a standing fan in the room with you.  The fan will help especially when painting the closet where the space is closed up.


  • Paint:  oil-based, latex satin, latex flat – 1 GALLON each
  • 2 – 2 1/2″ angled brushes (1-oil, 1- latex) – combo set
  • 3″ brush (oil)
  • large roller brush, handle, & tray, liners
  • large roller extender *optional* (for ceiling)
  • small roller brush, handle, & tray
  • refills (large & small roller brushes)
  • plastic (cover furniture)
  • canvas drop cloths for carpet
  • painter’s tape
  • paint brush cleaner  – OIL only
  • ladder/step stool
  • goggles (for ceilings)


  • Move all furniture to middle of room –  including closet
  • Cover all furniture with plastic
  • Vacuum – really good (especially where carpet meets baseboards)
  • Clean all baseboards and closet shelves – with a little soap and water on rag
  • Tape down carpet at baseboards – 2 layers
  • Put down canvas drop cloths

***NOTE*** We are getting new carpet, so I did not have to worry about saving the carpet with drop cloths.  The paint splatter from the ceiling and doors will be messy, so protect your flooring!!



TIME FRAME: 3-4 Hours

Paint all of the baseboards and door frames with the OIL-BASED paint.  I used the 2 1/2″ angles brush for the top part of the baseboards and sides of door frames (where frame meets wall) to get a straighter line.  You can used tape if you want – it’s just personal preference.

I used the 3″ brush for the bottom (wider) part of the baseboard to make it easier, and less brush strokes.  ***TIP***  Since you will be working with TWO paint brushes,  use the lid of the paint can to store the 2nd paint brush.  Ijust slid the paint can around the room with me so that I would have both brushes near me at all times.




TIME FRAME:  2 Hours

Paint the walls, closet ceiling, shelves, rod, and baseboards with LATEX SATIN paint.  I used another 2 1/2″ angled paint brush for all of the corners, shelves, rod, and baseboards.  Then I used a foam roller brush for the walls and ceiling.

***NOTE***  I used all of the same paint in the closet for the first coat to make it easier.  If you want to leave it with latex paint, skip STEP 4.  I painted the baseboards and rod with oil-based paint for a second coat (just because I thought they would get the most scratched).




TIME FRAME :  3 Hours

Paint all of the bedroom baseboards and door frames again (2nd coat) with the OIL-BASED paint AND paint the closet baseboards/closet rod.   The second coat goes on much faster than the first coat – yay!!  It will also look whiter and will cover the pre-existing scratches better

***TIP***Oil-based paint is more durable than latex paint so I decided that the closet baseboards and rod would get the most use.  I didn’t want wire coat hangers to scratch the paint off of the rod (painted with latex), or baseboards to get banged up either.  Once again, personal preference.




TIME FRAME:  3 Hours

Use LATEX FLAT paint for the ceilings.  Paint corners, tops and sides of door frames with 2 1/2″ angled brush to get into crevices.  The angled brush also helps to keep paint lines straighter – especially where the wall meets the ceiling.  Then roll with large roller brush.

***NOTE***  I only did one coat for the ceiling, but make sure you put a decent amount of paint on your roller brush to cover existing paint color.  Ceilings are very textured and will require more paint to cover the bumps.




TIME FRAME:  2 Hours (for 4 doors)

Paint the doors using the OIL-BASED paint, and do 2 coats.  My doors have an arch in them, so I painted the inset first with a brush.  Then I painted all of the flat surfaces with the smaller roller brush.

***The roller brush was the bomb – it was the perfect size for painting the door!!  Plus, no brush strokes!!***

You can tape off the door handle, take it off, or just paint around it (like me) using the angled paint brush.  I kept some paper towels and old rags around to wipe excess paint off of mine.

***TIP***Don’t forget to do the inside and outside parts of the door… well as the hinges.  I painted 2 coats on these also.

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT, and paint the 2nd coat the next day.***



















Now, you can move on to the next room or bathroom – right?  Just remember to take a break during all of the painting so you don’t get overwhelmed – trust me!!  I am on room 4 – so I’ll keep you updated!!





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