DIY Nightstand Makeover: Painted White with Dark Top

Give nightstands an instant makeover with paint, white bottom, black top, oil.-rubbed bronze hardware.

Have you been wanting new nightstands in your master or guest bedroom, but can’t seem to pull the trigger because your “old ones”….well… they’re still good??!! I mean…..they aren’t terrible or anything (well maybe), but they are definitely not the style or look you are going for?? Yep….get in line.  It’s really difficult to drop several hundred dollars for something you already own…but just have grown tired of.   So, what’s a girl to do???  I found myself in the same dilemma.   I really couldn’t alter the style on these bad boys (and I soooo would have), but at least I could do something about the look.   If you find yourself in a similar situation (enter in a little paint, glaze, & some extra time out of your schedule), and you can change your nightstands too.  DIY Nightstand Makeover:  Painted White with Dark Top.  So, let’s refresh those “oldies, but goodies” nightstands of your’s and give them the makeover they deserve!!  *** I used latex paint on these, but you could use chalk paint, and just skip some of my first steps ***

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DIY NIGHTSTAND MAKEOVER:  PAINTED WHITE WITH DARK TOP

BEFORE

Need a DIY Nightstand Makeover? Painted white with black top in 10 steps.

AFTER

Need a DIY nighstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with black top in 10 steps.


SUPPLIES NEEDED:

1.  3 Paintbrushes- (1 for primer/white paint, 1 for black paint, 1 for glaze/wax)

2.  Primer – Zinnser

3.  Paint- Behr Swiss Coffee 1 quart (Home Depot Brand)

4.  Sandpaper – 150 Grit Sandpaper sheets or sponge

5.  Clear Wax – Trewax

6.  Dark Glaze- Java Brown or Dark Wax – Howard Citrus Shield Dark Oak

7.  Spray Paint – Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint

8.  Rags  and T-shirt rags – Rags….. T-shirts– (for wiping dust, glaze/wax off)

9.  Plastic or fabric drop cloths – Plastic drop cloths…..Canvas fabric drop cloth

10.  Wooden blocks (or something to put nightstand feet on & hardware on)

11. Painter’s Tape – Scotch Blue

12.  Black Paint for Top- sample size or 1 quart Behr (Home Depot)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Need a DIY nighstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

Here is the Behr Whites Collection (brochure) from Home Depot   I just wanted to show you what Behr Swiss Coffee looks like with other “whites.”

Since whites have a hint of another color added – you can see the subtle shades of yellows, browns, grays, greens, etc in the picture…. that is what the undertone looks like.

I see a hint of pink…what do you see?

 

 

 

 

 

 


STEP 1 – REMOVE HARDWARE (AND TAPE- as needed)

Take hardware off, and put to the side for now.  I had to tape off my marble top, but you will not need this step if you have a wooden top until STEP 4.

 


STEP 2 – SAND

Tear off a small square from the 150 sandpaper sheet (or sponge), and sand the nightstands and drawers.  You don’t have to sand a lot, just enough to get some of the topcoat off.  You can see in the pictures below the light yellow color…..that’s the what the topcoat looks like when sanded.  Wipe off the dust with a clean rag.  If it has a lot of grooves like mine, blow the dust off or use a vaccuum to get the hard-to-reach dust particles.  *** If using chalk paint, skip to step 4. ***

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


STEP 3 – PRIME

Put your canvas drop cloth down, and set up your wooden blocks first.  (As you can tell from my garage….I no longer put a drop cloth down.  But you should -LOL ).  I primed these using the Zinnser primer – one coat only.  I did not completely paint these solid with the primer, so it will have some brush marks in it.   This is my personal preference.  (It makes more grooves like real wood would have, instead of a flat, smooth finish). Also prime the portion between the drawers and sides of where the drawers slide in…..see pictures below..  Let Dry Overnight.

***TOP PORTION TIP***  If you have a wooden top, prime it also.

***If using chalk paint, skip to step 4***

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Make sure you fill in ALL crevices if you want to do the glazing/waxing part.

Need a DIY nighstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And prime the drawers….paint in horizontal (longways) brush strokes .

Prime your TOP section last.

 

 

 

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


STEP 4 – PAINT WHITE

For this part I used latex paint Behr Swiss Coffee – one coat.  You can use chalk paint. (If you use chalk paint, do 2 coats of paint. )

The one coat of latex paint should cover more than just the primer.  You can see below LEFT that the corner section is painted, but the side is primed.  In the picture on the RIGHT it is completely painted.  Let Dry Overnight before glazing. 

***TIP*** Let Dry 4 hours before adding black paint to TOP ***  (I did not have this step, but wanted to make sure you let the white paint dry before adding black paint to top).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Need a DIY nightstand Makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Below right painted, below left primed only.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover: Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Both painted with drawers below.

Need a d DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


***STEP 4.5 – PAINT TOP BLACK***

Paint top with black paint (your choice) to get the dark top, white bottom two-toned look like mine.  It will go over primer.  How many coats?  One coat – if you want a charcoal- grayish look.  Two coats – if you want a darker black look.

***TIP*** Be careful not to drip black paint on your white sections 😉

Let All Dry Overnight.

 


STEP 5 – SAND

Use that same 150 grit sandpaper sheet/sponge and sand around edges of nightstand feet, corners of drawers, and a couple of random areas that would get more wear and tear. I also sanded my drawers in a horizontal direction to create lines on my drawers.  I like a messier look to my furniture, so it is your choice.

***TIP*** If you have a wooden top, sand around the edges in corner spots, and then on the top piece if you want a more distressed look.

***TIP*** Do not sand (leave solid) if you want a clean, smooth top.

Need a DIY nightstand Makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 


STEP 6 – GLAZE

I used the Rust Oleum Java Brown Glaze, and put it on with a 3rd paint brush or glaze/wax brush.  (You could use the Howard Dark Oak wax or another dark wax here if you prefer another color.)  This java brown has a golden tone in it, and it was the “look” that I needed for this painting method.  Work in small sections….I chose a portion of the side panel first.  Brush it on quickly – cover it all– then quickly rub off in small circular strokes with your t-shirt rag (or old t-shirt if you have one).  These t-shirts are nice and soft and take off the perfect amount of glaze without leaving “scratch” marks.  Let Dry Overnight.

FYI *** I did not wax first before I put my glaze on….like I normally would ***  This is so the glaze actually changes the color of the paint – see picture 2 below.

***TIP*** Glaze the TOP section (on top of black) LAST.  The glaze will soften the black and give it a bronze look (black-brown-golden)*** 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

The pictures below – right one is glazed, left one has not been done yet.  You can see the “golden” tint here on right.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 


STEP 7 – CLEAR WAX

Using your yellow sponge, get a little clear wax and begin to wipe wax on with circular motions.

***TIP*** After I put the wax on, I very lightly go over it with the sponge in straight lines, so that it does not dry in the circular patterns.  The wax dries in about 15 mins, so try to put the wax on in small sections.  You will notice that some of the glaze is coming off a little, and that is normal.

Need a DYI nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Once you do finish the first nightstand, go ahead and wax the other nightstand, drawers, and tops.

*** Immediately after you finish everything, take a new, clean rag and wipe everything down.

***TIP*** You will begin to see a shine appear as you continue wiping.   At first, it will be more difficult to wipe (feels thick), but then will get easier as you are taking more wax residue off.  You are basically buffing your nightstands.

.Go ahead to the next step- You do not have to wait overnight for this step.

*** Put painter’s tape between top and sides before beginning next step. ***

 


STEP 8 – PAINT WHITE AGAIN

Go back and put another LIGHT paint coat on with your swiss coffee paint.  When you dip your brush into the can, don’t get a lot of paint on the brush.  Start with a smaller amount and paint over your waxed nightstand.  It will go on very smoothly because you just buffed it with your rag.

***TIP***  You can control how much paint you want to use to cover some of your glaze.  How much white do you want to show?  If you want your nightstands whiter, add more paint.  If you want a more glazed look, use less paint on this part.

FYI- I wanted mine to be whiter so it would look “aged” more naturally in the crevices.  Let Dry Overnight.

***TIP*** DO NOT GET WHITE PAINT ON YOUR BLACK TOP.  USE PAINTER’S TAPE TO HELP

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Can you tell how the bottom picture has a more “golden” tone than the top picture?  Keep adding paint until you get the shade you like.


STEP 9 – SAND

Lightly sand over those spots you have already sanded…..just enough to uncover some of those areas that might have been painted with the second coat.  Should just be a touch-up.  The top section does not need more sanding.


STEP 10 – CLEAR WAX

Do the clear wax one more time, and buff again.  Same as step 7.  Go ahead and take the painter’s tape off and wax the TOP section again.  It will need additional protection.


***SPRAYING THE HARDWARE***

Put down your plastic, and lie your hardware front side up on something to lift it up from the ground.  I always use some extra pieces of boards that I have left over from other projects.  Spray with the Oil Rubbed Bronze paint…..let dry at least 30 mins.  Turn upside down and spray back side….let dry 30 mins.  Turn back over to right side up again.  Let Dry Overnight or wait at least 2- 4 hours.  FYI – there is so much hardware because I was painting my dresser at the same time.  And it has a ton of hardware.  See below for a sneak peek of it.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Picture below is front side up – sprayed.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Picture below -has one side front side up painted (right), the other side flipped to the back side not painted (left).  You can see the original goldish color on the back side.

Need a DYI nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Now….go back and spray lightly one more time with the right side showing.  This is just a touch-up, but important to do.  Let dry for an hour and put back on your nightstands.

***TIP*** When you spray hardware….spray FOUR different directions.  Spray upward direction, downwards, right, and left.  The worst feeling it to THINK you are all done and patting yourself on the back….only to realize that half of the hardware didn’t get sprayed.  You then have to take the hardware off again, set up your prep area again, spray again, let dry again, and then put back on AGAIN!!  Trust me….it’s just worth the trouble to do it right the first time.  That is why I turn mine upside down….because you spray other angles that would not have gotten sprayed right side up!!  YOU ARE DONE MY FRIEND!!

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 


Bring out the champagne and celebrate….CHEERS!!

Need a DIY makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


Here is a sneak preview of my dresser that I finished.  It is painted differently than the nightstands, so I’ll post that tutorial soon.


When we get back into our house, and our rebuild is complete……I will post pictures of the nightstands in my Master Bedroom.  Can’t wait!!!  *** Shoot me some pictures of your “new”  nightstands (or other pieces).  I would LOVE to see your oldies, but goodies!!

Have an Awesome Week and a Very Happy Easter!!! 

The Lord is Risen…..He is Risen Indeed!!

Love and Easter Hugs  🙂

 

 

Want more painting tips?  Try Distressed White Round Mirror, How to Stain Your Staircase Dark Using Java Gel, or Painting Your Kitchen Cabinets White

 

 

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How to Stain Banisters Dark with Java Gel

You’ve been dreaming of changing your stair banister color….. forever.  But every time you plan to start the job, something always interferes- am I right?  This was me too.

I knew I could do the job myself, but also knew it was going to take some time…… and yes some work.  So, I kept putting it off.  And then I got on pinterest and started researching how to do it with the least amount of headaches as possible (found this great tutorial by Kelly with practically spoiled ), and the conclusion was simple.   Stain your banisters with Java Gel.   I had been painting/staining furniture for years and already had the java gel on hand.  So it was an easy decision…..The journey began.

BEFORE pic……

 

and AFTER….

 

  Complete transformation.  Why didn’t I do this sooner??  Well, you need a little time (4-5 days), a lot of patience, and maybe some wine in between coats ;).  But the end result was sooooo worth it!


So, where to begin?

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

Dropcloths, plastic, old sheets, etc….

Painters tape

Ladder

1-2 paintbrushes (if cleaning with mineral spirits or paint thinner) OR a bag of foam paint brushes so you can toss out after each use

Stir Stick

General Finishes Java Gel Stain

Minwax polyurethane (I used satin)

***sander deglosser*** optional

***mineral spirits or paint thinner if cleaning brushes*** optional

 

                 OPTIONAL SUPPLIES PICS………….

 


STEP ONE:  SET UP DROPCLOTHS AND PAINTERS TAPE

Make sure ALL exposed areas such as:  hardwood floors, carpet, in between spindles, etc….. are covered with something.  Use dropcloths, plastic, old sheets, etc….but make sure nothing is left uncovered.  There will always be some kind of splatter or drip, and you might accidentally bump something with your brush.  So, double check yourself on this part because this stain……well it STAINS.  It is oil based and will not come off.

 Next, make sure to put painters tape (or some kind of wide tape – 1 1/2″ wide) on BOTH sides of the banister.  Tear some pieces off, and put the tape where the banister meets the spindles.  It will take a little extra time, but worth it.  This will help from getting stain on the spindles (if you have wood), and having to go back and try to paint over the stain when you have an oops moment.  Trust me- it will happen.  If you don’t have wide tape, then double the 3/4″ size to make it wider.

(READ THROUGH ALL TIPS FIRST BEFORE BEGINNING STEP 2)

***TIP ONE*** Stir java gel with stir stick really well to get all the sediments from the bottom and to blend it better.   The stain will go on much easier and smoother when blended.

***TIP TWO*** Begin on outside of banister if you can’t get to it with a ladder.  You don’t want to lean over the banister and get stain on your clothes, plus you’ll have to redo it anyway because the stain has come off in places (and now on you ;)).

***TIP THREE*** Begin with the top of the stairs and move downward.  It is easier to use a downward brush stroke, than upwards.

***TIP FOUR***  Use the sander deglosser before putting first coat of stain on, if you still have a lot of gloss on banister.  Mine was worn off (because it had been on for 10 years), so I did not use it.


STEP 2:  BRUSH ON FIRST COAT OF STAIN

Take one of your brushes, get a small amount of stain on it, and use brush strokes that go with the grain of the wood (length stroke).  You will need to work fairly quickly because it will dry at a faster rate than regular stain.  Just keep dipping the brush in the stain, wipe any excess stain off, and then keep moving down your banister.  Let this dry overnight.  The can says 4-6 hours, but it works better if completely dry.  Plus, you’ll want the break.


STEP 3:  BRUSH ON SECOND COAT OF STAIN 

The second coat will be much easier to do than the firts coat since you are simply going over the work you have already done.  (It’s kind of like painting your finger/toe nails.  The first coat always takes a little longer because you have to get into all the grooves and crevices perfectly, but then the second coat is basically just covering what you have already done- right?)

Let stain dry overnight.  I did both of my coats during the day as soon as my kiddos left for school.  This way the banister would have almost 4-6 hours to dry before they came back home.  And I felt a little safer about the drying time just in case the kiddos accidentally touched the banisters (and they happen to still be a little damp).


STEP 4:  BRUSH ON FIRST COAT OF POLYURETHANE

I know you don’t have to do the polyurethane when you use gel stain.  But since the banisters are used EVERY day at my house, and by messy hands….. I went ahead and did this step anyway.  It adds just a little extra protection, and hopefully less maintenance down the road.  Brush on one coat, and let dry overnight.  I did this at night so there was no chance of little hands touching the rails.


STEP 5: BRUSH ON SECOND/LAST COAT OF POLYURETHANE

Repeat same process as before, and let dry overnight.  And…. you are done!!!


I went ahead and painted my spindles again just to give them a fresh look (it was color match to my home builder trim), and it made all the difference.  Here are some before pics of how it  used to look with green walls (SW Favorite Tan), original stain, and scratched up spindles.  And then the after with the gray walls (SW Amazing gray), java gel stain, and repainted spindles.

 

Top of stairs BEFORE…….

and AFTER……..

 

 

Close up BEFORE……

and AFTER…..

 

I am in the process of changing out the carpet to wood, so check back in for the update!

 

Have a Great Day!! Love & hugs 🙂

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Distressed Hand Painted White Round Mirror- DIY

Hi and Happy Tuesday!

I always find it amazing how painting something completely changes the look and feel of whatever is being painted.    Paint can makes things looks bigger and brighter, or dark and sultry.  It’s all up to you, the painter.  Today, I wanted to share with you this distressed white round mirror that I painted, & show you how to get this look.  Together we will transform this bronze-colored mirror to a beautiful white, using a little distressed method that I like to do.

Before…….

And After…..

STEP ONE – CHOOSE THE MIRROR YOU WANT TO PAINT 

So, where do we start?  Choose a mirror that you don’t mind changing up (buy one) or one that you’re just simply tired of looking at in it’s present state (one that you already own).   The mirror I painted is from Hobby Lobby……and even though I still think it’s a beautiful mirror as is, I was just ready to move the style/décor of my house into a different direction.

If you wanted to do this mirror, it sells for $139.99 full price .  You can wait for the 50% off sale that they do every other week or use their 40% off store coupon, and the price goes down to roughly $75-$85.  Just a FYI-  I had this mirror for about 5 yrs, so it was something that I didn’t mind changing.  It all depends on what you want to spend (or save).

 

STEP 2- BUY/GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES

SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED:

2-3 Paintbrushes

primer

1 white paint

1 gray paint

1 clear wax

1 dark wax (optional)

1 sanding sheets pkg.

1 angled sanding sponge (optional)

gloves

stir stick

solo plastic cup and/or coffee container (optional)

*** nail hole filler/spackling if doing this exact mirror ***

 

Most of my supplies for this painted mirror project came from Home Depot and Ace Hardware.  Both of these stores are close to my house, and convenience when painting is a huge factor for me.   I also use Sherwin Williams for paint color choices, just not on this project.

Here are some pictures of the supplies with prices to give you an idea of cost (at Home Depot).  Remember that all of the supplies can be used for several small projects & you can choose whatever brand/store that you like.

 

 

If you get these Behr paint samples (above pictures) at Home Depot, it will help keep prices down.   They come in 5 finishes, but I typically use matte flat or flat when painting items.  You can always get sample sizes at Sherwin Williams also.

STEP 3 – FILLING OUTSIDE LAYER WITH NAIL HOLE

FILLER/SPACKLING

***If you are doing this exact mirror, continue with step 3.  If you are doing a different mirror, skip to step 4.***

So you have chosen your mirror, purchased your supplies, and now ready to fill in that outer layer of the mirror.  So here is what the outer rim looks like…..kind of like leaves or vines.  Since it had more of a traditional look to it, I decided to change it.

This is where the gloves, nail hole filler, and TIME will come into play.  Cut a pretty good chunk off the tip of the tube of nail hole filler so that MORE comes out.  This is important because it will take less time filling in those vine-y areas.

Put your gloves on and start squeezing the tube so that you can fill in that outer area with the pink “goo”, just to the amount you desire.  I covered about 1/2 to 3/4 of the vines (just enough so I could not make out those lines exactly……just a personal preference really).   Smooth it out with your  gloved fingers, and rinse gloved fingers off when it starts to dry.

 

This will be time consuming and messy….maybe an hour or more.  What I love about this kind of filler is that it starts out pink when wet, and turns white when it is dry.  Takes the guessing out of it.  Let dry for 24 hours.  If there is still some areas with slight pink in color, don’t worry.  It will dry by the next day.

***  You may want a large plastic bowl filled with water and rag to help get nail hole filler off gloved fingers ***

*** If you want more filler on your outer rim, you may also want 2 tubes of nail hole filler ***

 

STEP 4- PRIMING/PAINTING MIRROR

Begin priming the mirror with one of your paint brushes, following along with the lines of the mirror.  Do not completely cover mirror with primer so that it is solid white – should have some dark streaks in it.  You can see the streaks here (in it’s final state).

  

Let the primer dry 2-4 hours.

Now add your gray paint and follow those same brush strokes so that you can see just a little white peeking through in some spots. Let dry overnight.

I used (Cathedral Gray- gray paint by Behr) and (Polar Bear- white paint by Behr) for this project. If you want other shades, I also like (French Silver- gray, and Swiss Coffee-white) – all at Home Depot.  See Below -the picture on left show differences in shades of whites, the picture on right shows difference in shades of gray.

 

 

 STEP 5- WAX MIRROR

THIS IS IMPORTANT, DO NOT SKIP.  Take your clear wax and spread all over your mirror with a sponge or rag.  Let dry 20 minutes- then dry off with a rag.  It will have a light sheen after you do this.  Waxing will keep the gray paint from coming off when you sand it later.

 STEP 6-  PAINT WHITE COAT

Now you can paint the mirror with your white paint.  Cover it completely with the paint- just not thick.  Let it dry overnight.

 

STEP 7 – CLEAR WAX AGAIN/ADD DARK WAX

Use your clear wax again, wait 20 mins, and dry off with your rag.  Now add your dark wax, and wipe off immediately…..leaving some spots with dark showing.  I did mine with more dark showing on the vine-y filled outer layer to add depth.  If you do not want any dark was/antiquing added, skip this step.  Let dry overnight.  Dry it off the next day.

*** TIP***I like to use the solo plastic cups and/or Folgers coffee container to put my dark wax brush in .  I use these while I am working so that the brush doesn’t get dirty, and also to store my brush in afterwards.  The Folgers container is great because you can cover it with the lid.  ***  I’m sure these 2 items looked completely ridiculous on the “supplies” list 😉

 I got both of these from Ace Hardware, but here they amazon carries them also.  They sell for around $15-$20 each.

 

STEP 8- WAX THEN SAND DOWN MIRROR

After you have dried/wiped off the mirror (from dark wax), do another clear wax coat & dry off.

NOW- You can begin sanding immediately after your last waxing/drying off.   Start with the 150 grit sanding sheets, and start sanding gently.  Add more pressure if you want more streaks showing (distressing).  Use the 80 grit (coarse) for greater distressed look and 220 grit (fine) for less distressed look).

You can use your angled sanding sponge (optional) here to get in between those difficult spots/angles that the sanding sheets can’t get to.

STEP 9- CLEAR WAX AGAIN

You will do the clear wax one last time- same method.  Dry it off to get the sheen you want for your desired look AND…..

YOU ARE DONE!!!

 

Here is a little cheat sheet – 5 day project

Day 1- Choose mirror & do filler

Day 2- Prime (2-4 hours to dry), Paint Gray (let dry overnight)

Day 3- Clear wax (dry 20 mins), Paint White (let dry overnight)

Day 4- Clear wax again, Dark wax (let dry overnight)

Day 5- Clear wax again, Sand, Clear Wax final time

 

 

Good job and hope you love your “new” mirror!!

 

 

Have a Fabulous Day!  Love & Hugs 🙂

 

 

 

 

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