Painting 101: White-Washed Dresser Tutorial

Now, that I have posted our Home Tour:  Coastal Farmhouse Master Bedroom, it is time to share the white-washed dresser tutorial with you – woohoo!!   It’s about time – right?   I know lots of you have been wanting to learn how to white-wash furniture, so this tutorial will give you everything you need to know (or should – lol!!!)  It is the same process as the Master Bed Frame Makeover (tutorial), but sometimes it just helps to see it on the furniture piece that you want to try it on.  So, let’s get to updating that dresser!!  Painting 101:  White-Washed Dresser Tutorial.


PAINTING 101:  WHITE-WASHED DRESSER TUTORIAL 

What is the white-washed technique?

I get asked quite often about different painting techniques, waxing, sanding, etc. that I use when painting furniture.  But the one method that comes up the most in discussion is how to get the white-washed “look.”  So, what is the white-washed technique anyway?

It’s basically a painting method that allows you to see part of the furniture peeking through (like you “wiped” something off with a rag, but the rag left some of the liquid behind).  This leftover “residue” would be “streaked” because of the motion of the rag (washed), giving it a “dulled or milky” appearance.  Does that make sense?

2 WAYS TO GET THE WHITE-WASHED LOOK:

  1. White-Washed Method.  In this method, the paint is diluted with water to make it runnier;  therfore, making it easier to wipe off with a rag.  The paint mixture is usually 3 parts paint to 1 part water ratio (3:1 ratio).   This technique works best when you are trying to “barely” change the color of the wood.  It will basically “lighten” the existing wood tone.  The more coats you put on, the less wood that shows through.  The cons of this method is that it is VERY messy, and also VERY time consuming if not done correctly.  Thus….. alternate method #2 – dry-brushing.
  1. Dry-Brushed Method.  This is the method that I use most often to get the white-washed look.  In this method, you will not dilute the paint with water but you will use a rag to get the excess paint off of your brush.  Basically, you are working with a “DRY-BRUSH” (one with little paint on it) – get it?  HUH?  You dip your paint into the paint can, get a SMALL amount of paint onto the brush, then WIPE OFF the excess paint each time.  This dry-brush (with little paint on it) allows the paint to come out in “streaks.”  ***I will explain more below when you can see the pictures, but I just wanted to give you a brief description.***

***NOTE***This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links.  See my privacy and disclosure policies below for more info.  Thanks for your support.***

If you want to see my white-washed bed click Master Bed Frame Makeover:  Painted White or glazed white nightstands click Nightstands Makeover:  Painted White with Black Top.


SUPPLIES NEEDED:  


8 STEPS:  WHITE-WASH PAINTING TUTORIAL

  1. Prep Dresser & Area
  2. Prime Dresser
  3. Paint Dresser – 2 coats
  4. Spray Paint Hardware
  5. Wax Dresser
  6. Distress Dresser (optional)
  7. Wax Dresser Again
  8. Put Hardware Back On

PAINTING 101:  WHITE-WASHED DRESSER TUTORIAL

So, here it is again – before…..


STEP 1:  PREP DRESSER & PAINTING AREA

Remove all of the hardware from your dresser, and wipe down dresser with a rag.  Make sure to wipe down all of the drawers and inside the dresser also.    Set up your canvas or plastic drop cloth, and make sure you are in a well ventilated area (like outside or in your garage). Prop your dresser up onto wooden blocks or paint cans to lift it off of the ground.  You do not want it sitting directly on your painting surface.

Obviously……I needed to put down something in my garage -picture above – but I’ve painted so many pieces that I got lazy.  DON’T BE ME – lol!!

NOTE – I did not sand this piece down (prior to painting) because my primer bonds really well to the furniture surface.  You can sand it down first if you choose…but why do the extra step if you don’t need to -haha!!  If you just feel like you need to sand it down, then I would recommend sanding down the top part only.


STEP 2:  PRIMING

Put a small amount of primer onto your paint brush, wipe off excess onto rag and begin gently brushing your primer onto your dresser.  You will need several rags for this process, as the paint will begin to soak through. ***TIP***The less paint you put onto the brush, the less messy it will be.  HINT-HINT!

See pictures below.  Here is what the priming stage looks like.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

***TIP***  Use long, quick brush strokes and make sure to gently brush the primer on.  You will not want to fully cover your piece – should look streaked like these pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FULLY PRIMED

 

FULLY PRIMED CLOSEUP

 

Why am I showing so many pictures?  LOL!!  Once you get this priming stage done, the painting steps are much easier.  Plus I just wanted to stress that you are “not fully” covering your piece with paint – just streaks of paint.

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***


STEP 3:  PAINTING (2 COATS)

Now you will do the exact same method, but just using your white paint.  I used Behr Swiss Coffee from Home Depot for my white paint color.

Dip your brush into the paint, wipe off excess with rag, then gently brush on.  You will do TWO coats of this method.

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT – BETWEEN 2 COATS***

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here it is with the primed picture compared to the painted (2 coats) picture.  I just wanted you to be able to see the difference.

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***


STEP 4 – PAINTING THE HARDWARE PULLS

While you are waiting for the dresser to dry, go ahead and prep area to paint your hardware.  Put plastic down on the ground, and lie your hardware onto wooden blocks or cardboard.  I always use wooden pieces from leftover projects (can you tell – lol) for mine, but just use something to lift them above the plastic.

Spray your hardware making sure to get the inside areas as well.  Wait at least 30 mins then flip them over and spray the back side.  Once again, make sure to get “all” areas of the hardware.

***TIP***  I spray all sides from the left, then spray from the top, then spray from the right, and then from the bottom.  This way, I make sure I don’t miss any of the spots.  Trust me, it is the worst feeling EVER!! to finally think you have finished your painted dresser, ONLY to realize that 2 or 3 of the hardware pulls did not fully get covered – ugh!!  Out comes the plastic, spray paint, clean up, and TIME – all again.  Make your life easier by just doing it right the first time!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some closeup pictures so you can see the brass color of the original hardware (left below) and then the oil-rubbed bronze color after it is spray painted.

***TIP***  If you have brass hardware and spray them with either bronze or black paint, you can gently sand down the edges of the pulls to get an antiqued look (the brass peaks through).  This turns out REALLY pretty!!  I’ve done it many, many times – I just wasn’t going for that “antique-y” look on this particular piece.  Give it a try if that’s what you’re going for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip them over one more time (top side up), and gently spray again.  This will ensure that ALL sides are covered.

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***


STEP 5 – WAXING DRESSER

Put the 1st coat of wax on with the sponge that’s included (or rag), let sit at least 15 minutes, and wipe off to buff.  This stage is always where the magic happens – am I right?  It’s like the wax joins everything together, and makes it look a-ma-zing!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***


***STEP 6 – GENTLY SAND (DISTRESS) DRESSER (OPTIONAL)***

Use the 150-grit sandpaper to lightly distress areas of the dresser where normal wear and tear would occur naturally over time.  I distressed my dresser on random places at the feet, on edges of some of the drawers,  and on the top section and edge(rim).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


STEP 7 – WAX AGAIN

Repeat the same process again with the wax for the entire dresser.  Let dry overnight.

***Then put ONE more coat of wax on the TOP portion only. ***  So the entire dresser will have 2 coats total, and the TOP portion will have 3 coats total.

***LET DRY 2 DAYS BEFORE PUTTING DECOR ON TOP***


STEP 8 – PUT HARDWARE ON

AND YOU ARE DONE!!  WOOHOO!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


***LET DRY 2 DAYS BEFORE PUTTING DECOR ON TOP***

 

To see more of our master bedroom makeover and master bathroom makeover click Home Tour: Coastal Master Bedroom and Master Bath Remodel:  Hardware Accessories.

 

  • Have any questions?  Let me know – I’d love to help out any way I can.
  • Will you paint your bedroom furniture or try another piece to white-wash?  Let me know – I can’t wait to see the pictures of how beautiful it turns out!!

Have a Great Weekend!!

Love & Hugs 🙂 

RECOMMENDED POSTS : 

Home Tour:  Summer Dining Room

My Easter Tablescape:  Blue & Yellow

12 Best Modern Farmhouse Bar Stools

55 Incredible Barn Door Ideas:  Not Just For Farmhouse Style

 

 

 

 

 

 

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World Market Console Table Makeover: Painted Smoky Blue

We have had this World Market Console Table for awhile now, but I knew it was time for it to have a little makeover.  I have always loved it for several reasons:  1) it’s an adorable style and very sturdy;   2) it’s versatile – can be used in several rooms in the house; and most importantly 3) it’s very reasonably priced!!  But….. it needed a change (or maybe I did – who knows??)   So, for a couple of years, I was simply going to whitewash it.  Then I thought I was going to paint it black.  And then we flooded, so a whole knew idea came to mind.  The World Market Console Table Makeover:  Painted Smoky Blue.  I love how it turned out – do you??  Click here to see the console table in My Fall Home Tour.  ***If you want the look, without having to do the work, skip to the end of the post to shop console tables ***

***This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation from those links if you purchase from them, at no extra cost to you.  This allows me to write free content and to support my blog.  I only recommend products that I trust and believe in.  Thanks so much for your support!! 🙂 ***


WORLD MARKET CONSOLE TABLE MAKEOVER: 

PAINTED SMOKY BLUE

SUPPLIES

  1. World Market Console Table
  2. Sherwin Williams- 7604  Smoky Blue Paint
  3. Liming Wax
  4. Dark Glaze
  5. 2 Glazing Brushes (1 – liming wax, 1 – dark wax)
  6. 1 Angled Paintbrush
  7. Rags and T-shirts
  8. Canva Dropcloth or Plastic Dropcloth
  9. 150 grit Sand paper
  10. Clear Wax

Everett Foyer Table

 

 

Liming Wax 3.25oz Ah

Howard CS7014 Citrus Shield Paste Wax, 11-Ounce, Dark Oak

 

2-in-1 Round Chalk Paint and Wax Brush for Furniture | Professional Annie Sloan Quality | All Natural Bristles with Solid Wood Handle

Purdy 144080325 XL Series Dale Angular Trim Paint Brush, 2-1/2 inch

 

Utopia Towels Shop Towels - (Pack of 25) - Size 13 x 13 Inches - Reusable Commercial Grade 100% Cotton Washable Cleaning Cloths - Perfect Shop Rags for Mechanic Work and Bar MopNew Premium White T-Shirt Material Cloth Rags (1 lb)

 

4 x 12 All Purpose Canvas Cotton Drop Cloth by Chicago CanvasPremier 9' x 12' 1 MIL Clear Plastic Drop Cloth Rolled, 3 Pack, 69730

 

3M 25150P-G Pro Grade No-Slip Grip Advanced Sandpaper, 9 X 11-Inches, 150 Grit. 3/Pack

Trewax Beaumont Clear Paste Wax 197101016

 


WORLD MARKET CONSOLE TABLE MAKEOVER:

PAINTED SMOKY BLUE

STEPS:  (Quick Cheat Sheet)

  1. Dry-brush smoky blue – 3 coats

  2. Sand edges, legs, drawer corners

  3. Apply liming wax

  4. Apply dark wax

  5. Apply clear wax 


BEFORE PICTURES

 

 


WORLD MARKET CONSOLE TABLE MAKEOVER: 

PAINTED SMOKY BLUE

***  Sorry my pictures are not so beautiful, but this is the REAL deal here – LOL!!  I did A LOT of painting while we were flooded, and all of our furniture was stored in the garage.  Just thought I should mention that to make myself feel better 😉 ***

*** After you put down your dropcloth or plastic covering down to protect your floors (or garage- even though I did not- ha!), you are ready to begin.  I always use leftover wood pieces to lift my furniture, but you could use extra paint cans, etc….


STEP 1:  PAINTING 

Dry-brush your table using your angled paintbrush, making sure not to cover it completely.  To dry-brush:  dip your brush into your paint, and then gently dip your brush onto a rag to get the excess paint off.  You will not want a lot of paint on your brush for this method.

 

 

 

 

Let dry overnight.  Then apply 2 more coats covering a little more of the areas where you can see the natural wood peeking through.  Let dry over night between each coat.  You will still have some natural wood peeking through after 3rd coat.

 

 

1ST, 2ND 3RD COATS TOGETHER

 


STEP 2:  SANDING

Sand edges, legs, & drawer corners with 150-grit sandpaper.  Just press firmly to sand in some spots, and then apply lighter pressure in other spots for a more natural distressed look.

*** NOTE ***  I forgot to take pictures after I sanded, so these are after the liming stage.  I just wanted to let you see the sanded areas.

 


STEP 3:  LIMING WAX

*** READ this entire section before you begin this 3rd step, so that you do not make the mistake that I did. ***

You will work in small sections for this step.  Add liming wax with your wax brush in straight lines (not x-motion) brush strokes, then buff with a rag after 15 minutes (not an hour).   I buffed mine with a rag after about 15 mins (not an hour like the can says).  The longer the liming wax stayed on, the harder it was to buff off.  This was my personal preference for the look I wanted – fyi.

You will not need a lot of liming wax on your brush, but you will have to continue to add it after. EVERY. brush mark!!  This is the most time consuming step, but adds the MOST critical part of the project.

***NOTE***  I followed instructions on wax can and did x-MOTION marks (the first time – picture 2 below), but I personally did not like it.  So after it dried, I buffed it with heavy pressure to get x-shaped marks off.   I wanted a cleaner (straight line – picture 3 below) type of look.

 

 

 

Let dry overnight.  It is still a little tacky after the liming wax is applied, and needs to be completely dry before the next step.


STEP 4:  DARK WAX

Using a designated brush, apply dark wax to entire console table.  I also worked in sections for this step, but in bigger sections than liming wax.  Let dark wax sit for 15 mins, and wipe off with t-shirt (not rag).  The t-shirt allows you to glide over the wax without wiping it off completely (like the rag).  Allow some of the dark wax to remain in crevices and grooves for a more authentic antiqued look.

Let dry Completely Overnight.  Then wipe off/buff again – but this time use rag.  The rag will help get ALL excess dark wax off.

 

 

 


STEP 5:  CLEAR WAX

Apply clear wax to entire console table, let dry, and buff to shine.  If you want a shinier finish/look, add 2 – 3 layers of clear wax.  For a matte/flat finish, just apply one layer of clear wax.

*** YOU ARE DONE *** WOOHOO *** CHEERS *** CELEBRATE GOOD TIMES***


Since I am such a visual person, I thought you would benefit from these pictures.  Here it is from beginning to end – showing the different stages.  Now you can definitely see how the liming wax softens the blue color, and adds dimension/texture to the table.  Then the dark wax changes the color again, and blends everything together.  I love how the pictures tell the story – right??


 

 

 

Let me know how your console table makeover turns out!!  I’d love to see it – you got this!!

Happy Painting!!  Love & Hugs 🙂

Want more painting tips or inspiration?  Try Distressed Hand Painted White Round Mirror – DIY, How to Stain Bansiters Dark with Java Gel, or Master Bed Frame Makeover – Painted White.

 


***Want the LOOK, but just don’t want to do the work?

No problem….try one of these!***

 

  1.  Click here                                                                                                     2.  Click here

Black Everett Foyer Table

Burnt Alder Wood Everett Foyer Table

 

3.  Click here                                                                                                          4.   Click here

 

5.  Click here                                                                                                                   6.  Click here

Luann Console Table

 


 

 

 

 

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Master Bed Frame Makeover – Painted White

So, we have finally moved back into our bedroom downstairs…..and I am so excited about how the entire bedroom turned out.  The  2 things that “make” the bedroom and create some drama are the navy accent wall, and the white bed frame.  And since I painted the bed, I thought it would be awesome to show you the technique if you want to change your bed also.    Here is my master bed frame makeover – painted white using the dry-brushed technique tutorial.  If you want a glazed or antiqued tutorial (like my nightstands)…..click  HERE. Want to see my master bath makeover, click Master Bathroom Remodel:  Hardware Bling.

***NOTE***This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from my website, at no extra cost to you.  Thanks for your support 🙂


MASTER BED FRAME MAKEOVER – PAINTED WHITE

Where did it all begin?

before…..

 

 

after…..

 


SUPPLIES NEEDED:  

  • primer – I used zinsser

  • white paint – I used Behr Swiss Coffee – Home Depot

  • clear wax – I used trewax

  • paint brush – I prefer 2″ angled (angled gets into the grooves better)

  • 150-grit sandpaper or sponge -to distress bed

  • large boxes (heavy or weighted) or piece of furniture – to hold headboard/footboard upright while painting

  • wooden blocks- to hold up (rest) feet of bed on

  • rags/old shirts – to wipe off wax

  • canvas dropcloth or plastic – to protect floor


STEP 1:  PRIMING

***For Dry-Brushed Method***

before…..

 

To Prime:

Put your primer on in long brush strokes, making sure not to cover your bed in a solid paint color.  See below.

 

Closeup……

Full view……

 

Do the same technique for footboard and side rails if you have them.

 

 

 

 

 

*** LET PRIMER DRY OVERNIGHT***


STEP 2 – PAINTING (1ST COAT)

Put your first coat of white paint over primer in long brush strokes again, but this time covering more of the wood.

 

 

BELOW:  left side painted….right sight primed

 

You should be able to notice that the paint covers better than the primer, and it should feel thicker as you brush it on.  Just make sure NOT to cover the wood completely.  You should still be able to see brush strokes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BELOW:  PICTURE OF 1ST COAT PAINTED

 

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***


STEP 3:  PAINT 2 MORE COATS

BELOW:  Headboard 3 coats, Footboard 2 coats.  Can you tell how the headboard has more coverage on it than the footboard?

***TIP***  This is the stage/step where I go back and add in some paint to cover certain areas that do no look as even.  This is just personal preference for me.  

***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***


STEP 4:  PUT CLEAR WAX ON

Now you can put on your wax, let dry, and rag/buff off.  Put on more coats of wax if you want a shinier finish- just fyi.


STEP 5:  SAND/DISTRESS

Use your 150-grit sandpaper or sponge and gently sand over random areas where you want some original wood to show.  I like my sanded areas to be over the ornate “leaves” sections to accent the details, and then over the corners where the bed would naturally get “bumped”.  I also added some sanded areas in the middle sections of the headboard and footboard to move the eye around.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

***OPTIONAL STEP***  WAX OVER SANDED AREAS.  I like to do this just to bring out the wood tone (the wax makes the wood tone darker for more contrast) against the white paint.  But of course, this is your bed, so it is your decison!!

 

AND….YOU……ARE…….DONE!!!  WOOHOO!! 

TIME TO PUT YOUR “NEW” BED INTO YOUR BEDROOM!!!


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you love how your bed turns out….as much as I love mine!!  Let me know how your progress is going- or if you have any questions?  I would love to see some pictures of your bed too!!

I really feel like I got new furniture…without the high pricetag!!  Plus the white really lifts the room so much more than the stained brown color, and it gives me the contrast I need against the navy wall.  Don’t cha think ??

 

 

HAVE AN AWESOME WEEK!!  LOVE & HUGS 🙂

 

Need more painting inspiration, check out:

DIY Nightstands Makeover, How To Stain Banisters Dark, Distressed Hand Painted White Round Mirror

Want more decorating inspiration, try:

10 Ways to Add Buffalo check, 29 Fabulous Wallpaper Ideas For Your Powder Bath, 41 Shiplap Ideas:  NOT Just For Walls (part 2)

 

before and after master bed frame makeover. brown bed painted white using dry-brushed method

 

 

 

 

 

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DIY Nightstand Makeover: Painted White with Dark Top

Give nightstands an instant makeover with paint, white bottom, black top, oil.-rubbed bronze hardware.

Have you been wanting new nightstands in your master or guest bedroom, but can’t seem to pull the trigger because your “old ones”….well… they’re still good??!! I mean…..they aren’t terrible or anything (well maybe), but they are definitely not the style or look you are going for?? Yep….get in line.  It’s really difficult to drop several hundred dollars for something you already own…but just have grown tired of.   So, what’s a girl to do???  I found myself in the same dilemma.   I really couldn’t alter the style on these bad boys (and I soooo would have), but at least I could do something about the look.   If you find yourself in a similar situation (enter in a little paint, glaze, & some extra time out of your schedule), and you can change your nightstands too.  DIY Nightstand Makeover:  Painted White with Dark Top.  So, let’s refresh those “oldies, but goodies” nightstands of your’s and give them the makeover they deserve!!  *** I used latex paint on these, but you could use chalk paint, and just skip some of my first steps ***

This post contains affiliate links which means that I may receive a small commission if you purchase something from these links, at no cost to you.  I only recommend items that support my blog content and that I trust.  Thanks for your support!! 🙂


DIY NIGHTSTAND MAKEOVER:  PAINTED WHITE WITH DARK TOP

BEFORE

Need a DIY Nightstand Makeover? Painted white with black top in 10 steps.

AFTER

Need a DIY nighstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with black top in 10 steps.


SUPPLIES NEEDED:

1.  3 Paintbrushes- (1 for primer/white paint, 1 for black paint, 1 for glaze/wax)

2.  Primer – Zinnser

3.  Paint- Behr Swiss Coffee 1 quart (Home Depot Brand)

4.  Sandpaper – 150 Grit Sandpaper sheets or sponge

5.  Clear Wax – Trewax

6.  Dark Glaze- Java Brown or Dark Wax – Howard Citrus Shield Dark Oak

7.  Spray Paint – Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint

8.  Rags  and T-shirt rags – Rags….. T-shirts– (for wiping dust, glaze/wax off)

9.  Plastic or fabric drop cloths – Plastic drop cloths…..Canvas fabric drop cloth

10.  Wooden blocks (or something to put nightstand feet on & hardware on)

11. Painter’s Tape – Scotch Blue

12.  Black Paint for Top- sample size or 1 quart Behr (Home Depot)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Need a DIY nighstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

Here is the Behr Whites Collection (brochure) from Home Depot   I just wanted to show you what Behr Swiss Coffee looks like with other “whites.”

Since whites have a hint of another color added – you can see the subtle shades of yellows, browns, grays, greens, etc in the picture…. that is what the undertone looks like.

I see a hint of pink…what do you see?

 

 

 

 

 

 


STEP 1 – REMOVE HARDWARE (AND TAPE- as needed)

Take hardware off, and put to the side for now.  I had to tape off my marble top, but you will not need this step if you have a wooden top until STEP 4.

 


STEP 2 – SAND

Tear off a small square from the 150 sandpaper sheet (or sponge), and sand the nightstands and drawers.  You don’t have to sand a lot, just enough to get some of the topcoat off.  You can see in the pictures below the light yellow color…..that’s the what the topcoat looks like when sanded.  Wipe off the dust with a clean rag.  If it has a lot of grooves like mine, blow the dust off or use a vaccuum to get the hard-to-reach dust particles.  *** If using chalk paint, skip to step 4. ***

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


STEP 3 – PRIME

Put your canvas drop cloth down, and set up your wooden blocks first.  (As you can tell from my garage….I no longer put a drop cloth down.  But you should -LOL ).  I primed these using the Zinnser primer – one coat only.  I did not completely paint these solid with the primer, so it will have some brush marks in it.   This is my personal preference.  (It makes more grooves like real wood would have, instead of a flat, smooth finish). Also prime the portion between the drawers and sides of where the drawers slide in…..see pictures below..  Let Dry Overnight.

***TOP PORTION TIP***  If you have a wooden top, prime it also.

***If using chalk paint, skip to step 4***

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Make sure you fill in ALL crevices if you want to do the glazing/waxing part.

Need a DIY nighstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And prime the drawers….paint in horizontal (longways) brush strokes .

Prime your TOP section last.

 

 

 

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


STEP 4 – PAINT WHITE

For this part I used latex paint Behr Swiss Coffee – one coat.  You can use chalk paint. (If you use chalk paint, do 2 coats of paint. )

The one coat of latex paint should cover more than just the primer.  You can see below LEFT that the corner section is painted, but the side is primed.  In the picture on the RIGHT it is completely painted.  Let Dry Overnight before glazing. 

***TIP*** Let Dry 4 hours before adding black paint to TOP ***  (I did not have this step, but wanted to make sure you let the white paint dry before adding black paint to top).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Need a DIY nightstand Makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Below right painted, below left primed only.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover: Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Both painted with drawers below.

Need a d DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


***STEP 4.5 – PAINT TOP BLACK***

Paint top with black paint (your choice) to get the dark top, white bottom two-toned look like mine.  It will go over primer.  How many coats?  One coat – if you want a charcoal- grayish look.  Two coats – if you want a darker black look.

***TIP*** Be careful not to drip black paint on your white sections 😉

Let All Dry Overnight.

 


STEP 5 – SAND

Use that same 150 grit sandpaper sheet/sponge and sand around edges of nightstand feet, corners of drawers, and a couple of random areas that would get more wear and tear. I also sanded my drawers in a horizontal direction to create lines on my drawers.  I like a messier look to my furniture, so it is your choice.

***TIP*** If you have a wooden top, sand around the edges in corner spots, and then on the top piece if you want a more distressed look.

***TIP*** Do not sand (leave solid) if you want a clean, smooth top.

Need a DIY nightstand Makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 


STEP 6 – GLAZE

I used the Rust Oleum Java Brown Glaze, and put it on with a 3rd paint brush or glaze/wax brush.  (You could use the Howard Dark Oak wax or another dark wax here if you prefer another color.)  This java brown has a golden tone in it, and it was the “look” that I needed for this painting method.  Work in small sections….I chose a portion of the side panel first.  Brush it on quickly – cover it all– then quickly rub off in small circular strokes with your t-shirt rag (or old t-shirt if you have one).  These t-shirts are nice and soft and take off the perfect amount of glaze without leaving “scratch” marks.  Let Dry Overnight.

FYI *** I did not wax first before I put my glaze on….like I normally would ***  This is so the glaze actually changes the color of the paint – see picture 2 below.

***TIP*** Glaze the TOP section (on top of black) LAST.  The glaze will soften the black and give it a bronze look (black-brown-golden)*** 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

The pictures below – right one is glazed, left one has not been done yet.  You can see the “golden” tint here on right.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 


STEP 7 – CLEAR WAX

Using your yellow sponge, get a little clear wax and begin to wipe wax on with circular motions.

***TIP*** After I put the wax on, I very lightly go over it with the sponge in straight lines, so that it does not dry in the circular patterns.  The wax dries in about 15 mins, so try to put the wax on in small sections.  You will notice that some of the glaze is coming off a little, and that is normal.

Need a DYI nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Once you do finish the first nightstand, go ahead and wax the other nightstand, drawers, and tops.

*** Immediately after you finish everything, take a new, clean rag and wipe everything down.

***TIP*** You will begin to see a shine appear as you continue wiping.   At first, it will be more difficult to wipe (feels thick), but then will get easier as you are taking more wax residue off.  You are basically buffing your nightstands.

.Go ahead to the next step- You do not have to wait overnight for this step.

*** Put painter’s tape between top and sides before beginning next step. ***

 


STEP 8 – PAINT WHITE AGAIN

Go back and put another LIGHT paint coat on with your swiss coffee paint.  When you dip your brush into the can, don’t get a lot of paint on the brush.  Start with a smaller amount and paint over your waxed nightstand.  It will go on very smoothly because you just buffed it with your rag.

***TIP***  You can control how much paint you want to use to cover some of your glaze.  How much white do you want to show?  If you want your nightstands whiter, add more paint.  If you want a more glazed look, use less paint on this part.

FYI- I wanted mine to be whiter so it would look “aged” more naturally in the crevices.  Let Dry Overnight.

***TIP*** DO NOT GET WHITE PAINT ON YOUR BLACK TOP.  USE PAINTER’S TAPE TO HELP

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Can you tell how the bottom picture has a more “golden” tone than the top picture?  Keep adding paint until you get the shade you like.


STEP 9 – SAND

Lightly sand over those spots you have already sanded…..just enough to uncover some of those areas that might have been painted with the second coat.  Should just be a touch-up.  The top section does not need more sanding.


STEP 10 – CLEAR WAX

Do the clear wax one more time, and buff again.  Same as step 7.  Go ahead and take the painter’s tape off and wax the TOP section again.  It will need additional protection.


***SPRAYING THE HARDWARE***

Put down your plastic, and lie your hardware front side up on something to lift it up from the ground.  I always use some extra pieces of boards that I have left over from other projects.  Spray with the Oil Rubbed Bronze paint…..let dry at least 30 mins.  Turn upside down and spray back side….let dry 30 mins.  Turn back over to right side up again.  Let Dry Overnight or wait at least 2- 4 hours.  FYI – there is so much hardware because I was painting my dresser at the same time.  And it has a ton of hardware.  See below for a sneak peek of it.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Picture below is front side up – sprayed.

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Picture below -has one side front side up painted (right), the other side flipped to the back side not painted (left).  You can see the original goldish color on the back side.

Need a DYI nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

Now….go back and spray lightly one more time with the right side showing.  This is just a touch-up, but important to do.  Let dry for an hour and put back on your nightstands.

***TIP*** When you spray hardware….spray FOUR different directions.  Spray upward direction, downwards, right, and left.  The worst feeling it to THINK you are all done and patting yourself on the back….only to realize that half of the hardware didn’t get sprayed.  You then have to take the hardware off again, set up your prep area again, spray again, let dry again, and then put back on AGAIN!!  Trust me….it’s just worth the trouble to do it right the first time.  That is why I turn mine upside down….because you spray other angles that would not have gotten sprayed right side up!!  YOU ARE DONE MY FRIEND!!

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 


Bring out the champagne and celebrate….CHEERS!!

Need a DIY makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.

 

Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


Need a DIY nightstand makeover? Try this tutorial: painted white with dark top in 10 steps.


Here is a sneak preview of my dresser that I finished.  It is painted differently than the nightstands, so I’ll post that tutorial soon.


When we get back into our house, and our rebuild is complete……I will post pictures of the nightstands in my Master Bedroom.  Can’t wait!!!  *** Shoot me some pictures of your “new”  nightstands (or other pieces).  I would LOVE to see your oldies, but goodies!!

Have an Awesome Week and a Very Happy Easter!!! 

The Lord is Risen…..He is Risen Indeed!!

Love and Easter Hugs  🙂

 

 

Want more painting tips?  Try Distressed White Round Mirror, How to Stain Your Staircase Dark Using Java Gel, or Painting Your Kitchen Cabinets White

 

 

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How to Stain Banisters Dark with Java Gel

You’ve been dreaming of changing your stair banister color….. forever.  But every time you plan to start the job, something always interferes- am I right?  This was me too.

I knew I could do the job myself, but also knew it was going to take some time…… and yes some work.  So, I kept putting it off.  And then I got on pinterest and started researching how to do it with the least amount of headaches as possible (found this great tutorial by Kelly with practically spoiled ), and the conclusion was simple.   Stain your banisters with Java Gel.   I had been painting/staining furniture for years and already had the java gel on hand.  So it was an easy decision…..The journey began.

BEFORE pic……

 

and AFTER….

 

  Complete transformation.  Why didn’t I do this sooner??  Well, you need a little time (4-5 days), a lot of patience, and maybe some wine in between coats ;).  But the end result was sooooo worth it!


So, where to begin?

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

Dropcloths, plastic, old sheets, etc….

Painters tape

Ladder

1-2 paintbrushes (if cleaning with mineral spirits or paint thinner) OR a bag of foam paint brushes so you can toss out after each use

Stir Stick

General Finishes Java Gel Stain

Minwax polyurethane (I used satin)

***sander deglosser*** optional

***mineral spirits or paint thinner if cleaning brushes*** optional

 

                 OPTIONAL SUPPLIES PICS………….

 


STEP ONE:  SET UP DROPCLOTHS AND PAINTERS TAPE

Make sure ALL exposed areas such as:  hardwood floors, carpet, in between spindles, etc….. are covered with something.  Use dropcloths, plastic, old sheets, etc….but make sure nothing is left uncovered.  There will always be some kind of splatter or drip, and you might accidentally bump something with your brush.  So, double check yourself on this part because this stain……well it STAINS.  It is oil based and will not come off.

 Next, make sure to put painters tape (or some kind of wide tape – 1 1/2″ wide) on BOTH sides of the banister.  Tear some pieces off, and put the tape where the banister meets the spindles.  It will take a little extra time, but worth it.  This will help from getting stain on the spindles (if you have wood), and having to go back and try to paint over the stain when you have an oops moment.  Trust me- it will happen.  If you don’t have wide tape, then double the 3/4″ size to make it wider.

(READ THROUGH ALL TIPS FIRST BEFORE BEGINNING STEP 2)

***TIP ONE*** Stir java gel with stir stick really well to get all the sediments from the bottom and to blend it better.   The stain will go on much easier and smoother when blended.

***TIP TWO*** Begin on outside of banister if you can’t get to it with a ladder.  You don’t want to lean over the banister and get stain on your clothes, plus you’ll have to redo it anyway because the stain has come off in places (and now on you ;)).

***TIP THREE*** Begin with the top of the stairs and move downward.  It is easier to use a downward brush stroke, than upwards.

***TIP FOUR***  Use the sander deglosser before putting first coat of stain on, if you still have a lot of gloss on banister.  Mine was worn off (because it had been on for 10 years), so I did not use it.


STEP 2:  BRUSH ON FIRST COAT OF STAIN

Take one of your brushes, get a small amount of stain on it, and use brush strokes that go with the grain of the wood (length stroke).  You will need to work fairly quickly because it will dry at a faster rate than regular stain.  Just keep dipping the brush in the stain, wipe any excess stain off, and then keep moving down your banister.  Let this dry overnight.  The can says 4-6 hours, but it works better if completely dry.  Plus, you’ll want the break.


STEP 3:  BRUSH ON SECOND COAT OF STAIN 

The second coat will be much easier to do than the firts coat since you are simply going over the work you have already done.  (It’s kind of like painting your finger/toe nails.  The first coat always takes a little longer because you have to get into all the grooves and crevices perfectly, but then the second coat is basically just covering what you have already done- right?)

Let stain dry overnight.  I did both of my coats during the day as soon as my kiddos left for school.  This way the banister would have almost 4-6 hours to dry before they came back home.  And I felt a little safer about the drying time just in case the kiddos accidentally touched the banisters (and they happen to still be a little damp).


STEP 4:  BRUSH ON FIRST COAT OF POLYURETHANE

I know you don’t have to do the polyurethane when you use gel stain.  But since the banisters are used EVERY day at my house, and by messy hands….. I went ahead and did this step anyway.  It adds just a little extra protection, and hopefully less maintenance down the road.  Brush on one coat, and let dry overnight.  I did this at night so there was no chance of little hands touching the rails.


STEP 5: BRUSH ON SECOND/LAST COAT OF POLYURETHANE

Repeat same process as before, and let dry overnight.  And…. you are done!!!


I went ahead and painted my spindles again just to give them a fresh look (it was color match to my home builder trim), and it made all the difference.  Here are some before pics of how it  used to look with green walls (SW Favorite Tan), original stain, and scratched up spindles.  And then the after with the gray walls (SW Amazing gray), java gel stain, and repainted spindles.

 

Top of stairs BEFORE…….

and AFTER……..

 

 

Close up BEFORE……

and AFTER…..

 

I am in the process of changing out the carpet to wood, so check back in for the update!

 

Have a Great Day!! Love & hugs 🙂

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Distressed Hand Painted White Round Mirror- DIY

Hi and Happy Tuesday!

I always find it amazing how painting something completely changes the look and feel of whatever is being painted.    Paint can makes things looks bigger and brighter, or dark and sultry.  It’s all up to you, the painter.  Today, I wanted to share with you this distressed white round mirror that I painted, & show you how to get this look.  Together we will transform this bronze-colored mirror to a beautiful white, using a little distressed method that I like to do.

Before…….

And After…..

STEP ONE – CHOOSE THE MIRROR YOU WANT TO PAINT 

So, where do we start?  Choose a mirror that you don’t mind changing up (buy one) or one that you’re just simply tired of looking at in it’s present state (one that you already own).   The mirror I painted is from Hobby Lobby……and even though I still think it’s a beautiful mirror as is, I was just ready to move the style/décor of my house into a different direction.

If you wanted to do this mirror, it sells for $139.99 full price .  You can wait for the 50% off sale that they do every other week or use their 40% off store coupon, and the price goes down to roughly $75-$85.  Just a FYI-  I had this mirror for about 5 yrs, so it was something that I didn’t mind changing.  It all depends on what you want to spend (or save).

 

STEP 2- BUY/GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES

SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED:

2-3 Paintbrushes

primer

1 white paint

1 gray paint

1 clear wax

1 dark wax (optional)

1 sanding sheets pkg.

1 angled sanding sponge (optional)

gloves

stir stick

solo plastic cup and/or coffee container (optional)

*** nail hole filler/spackling if doing this exact mirror ***

 

Most of my supplies for this painted mirror project came from Home Depot and Ace Hardware.  Both of these stores are close to my house, and convenience when painting is a huge factor for me.   I also use Sherwin Williams for paint color choices, just not on this project.

Here are some pictures of the supplies with prices to give you an idea of cost (at Home Depot).  Remember that all of the supplies can be used for several small projects & you can choose whatever brand/store that you like.

 

 

If you get these Behr paint samples (above pictures) at Home Depot, it will help keep prices down.   They come in 5 finishes, but I typically use matte flat or flat when painting items.  You can always get sample sizes at Sherwin Williams also.

STEP 3 – FILLING OUTSIDE LAYER WITH NAIL HOLE

FILLER/SPACKLING

***If you are doing this exact mirror, continue with step 3.  If you are doing a different mirror, skip to step 4.***

So you have chosen your mirror, purchased your supplies, and now ready to fill in that outer layer of the mirror.  So here is what the outer rim looks like…..kind of like leaves or vines.  Since it had more of a traditional look to it, I decided to change it.

This is where the gloves, nail hole filler, and TIME will come into play.  Cut a pretty good chunk off the tip of the tube of nail hole filler so that MORE comes out.  This is important because it will take less time filling in those vine-y areas.

Put your gloves on and start squeezing the tube so that you can fill in that outer area with the pink “goo”, just to the amount you desire.  I covered about 1/2 to 3/4 of the vines (just enough so I could not make out those lines exactly……just a personal preference really).   Smooth it out with your  gloved fingers, and rinse gloved fingers off when it starts to dry.

 

This will be time consuming and messy….maybe an hour or more.  What I love about this kind of filler is that it starts out pink when wet, and turns white when it is dry.  Takes the guessing out of it.  Let dry for 24 hours.  If there is still some areas with slight pink in color, don’t worry.  It will dry by the next day.

***  You may want a large plastic bowl filled with water and rag to help get nail hole filler off gloved fingers ***

*** If you want more filler on your outer rim, you may also want 2 tubes of nail hole filler ***

 

STEP 4- PRIMING/PAINTING MIRROR

Begin priming the mirror with one of your paint brushes, following along with the lines of the mirror.  Do not completely cover mirror with primer so that it is solid white – should have some dark streaks in it.  You can see the streaks here (in it’s final state).

  

Let the primer dry 2-4 hours.

Now add your gray paint and follow those same brush strokes so that you can see just a little white peeking through in some spots. Let dry overnight.

I used (Cathedral Gray- gray paint by Behr) and (Polar Bear- white paint by Behr) for this project. If you want other shades, I also like (French Silver- gray, and Swiss Coffee-white) – all at Home Depot.  See Below -the picture on left show differences in shades of whites, the picture on right shows difference in shades of gray.

 

 

 STEP 5- WAX MIRROR

THIS IS IMPORTANT, DO NOT SKIP.  Take your clear wax and spread all over your mirror with a sponge or rag.  Let dry 20 minutes- then dry off with a rag.  It will have a light sheen after you do this.  Waxing will keep the gray paint from coming off when you sand it later.

 STEP 6-  PAINT WHITE COAT

Now you can paint the mirror with your white paint.  Cover it completely with the paint- just not thick.  Let it dry overnight.

 

STEP 7 – CLEAR WAX AGAIN/ADD DARK WAX

Use your clear wax again, wait 20 mins, and dry off with your rag.  Now add your dark wax, and wipe off immediately…..leaving some spots with dark showing.  I did mine with more dark showing on the vine-y filled outer layer to add depth.  If you do not want any dark was/antiquing added, skip this step.  Let dry overnight.  Dry it off the next day.

*** TIP***I like to use the solo plastic cups and/or Folgers coffee container to put my dark wax brush in .  I use these while I am working so that the brush doesn’t get dirty, and also to store my brush in afterwards.  The Folgers container is great because you can cover it with the lid.  ***  I’m sure these 2 items looked completely ridiculous on the “supplies” list 😉

 I got both of these from Ace Hardware, but here they amazon carries them also.  They sell for around $15-$20 each.

 

STEP 8- WAX THEN SAND DOWN MIRROR

After you have dried/wiped off the mirror (from dark wax), do another clear wax coat & dry off.

NOW- You can begin sanding immediately after your last waxing/drying off.   Start with the 150 grit sanding sheets, and start sanding gently.  Add more pressure if you want more streaks showing (distressing).  Use the 80 grit (coarse) for greater distressed look and 220 grit (fine) for less distressed look).

You can use your angled sanding sponge (optional) here to get in between those difficult spots/angles that the sanding sheets can’t get to.

STEP 9- CLEAR WAX AGAIN

You will do the clear wax one last time- same method.  Dry it off to get the sheen you want for your desired look AND…..

YOU ARE DONE!!!

 

Here is a little cheat sheet – 5 day project

Day 1- Choose mirror & do filler

Day 2- Prime (2-4 hours to dry), Paint Gray (let dry overnight)

Day 3- Clear wax (dry 20 mins), Paint White (let dry overnight)

Day 4- Clear wax again, Dark wax (let dry overnight)

Day 5- Clear wax again, Sand, Clear Wax final time

 

 

Good job and hope you love your “new” mirror!!

 

 

Have a Fabulous Day!  Love & Hugs 🙂

 

 

 

 

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