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24 results found.
If you have been looking for something to do with your old antique window frames, or just need some paint color ideas and inspiration, you’re in the right spot. That’s because these old windows have been painted – A LOT – by me! Haha! We all know the story of Goldilocks and the 3 Bears, but what about the window frames and the 5 paint color trials? Well, I am here to tell you that sometimes going through all of the trials, leads you to the winner (the gold) – literally. So, let’s get to it. DIY Spray Painting Old Window Frames Gold.
*To see more window frame makeover before and after pictures. just scroll to the end.
***Note: This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links. Please see my privacy and disclosure policies below. Thanks for your support. 🙂
Before we get started, I wanted to share with you the many trials these frames went through.
And my reason for this is:
Ok, just wanted to be honest and keep things real here. So, let’s get to it.
I bought these 2 old window frames in Round Top awhile ago (April 2018), and just didn’t know exactly what I was going to do with them.
So of course, I went through the “trying on some colors” stage – to see if anything would grab my attention or spark some kind of inspiration for the frames.
Short answer – Nope.
Trial Color #3: Black
Can you see the craziness here – LOL!!
Trial Color #4: Whitewash over Black
I know what you are all thinking? Why would she whitewash them a second time?
Some people just never learn.
And THEN…… they sat in my garage for 2 years!!!
So, let’s get to the reason you are here: DIY Spray Painting Old Window Frames Gold!
Here are the the supplies that I used for spray painting the window frames gold.
This was a very budget-friendly makeover project = ~$30.
To clarify – you can spray paint using:
The first thing you will need to do is cover your floor with plastic and remove the hardware from each window pane (in order to be able to remove the glass).
Below is a before picture of one of the window frames – missing one glass pane.
Most likely, you will need to remove rusty nails and glazing points in order to get the glass out.
I recommend using the soft grip pliers or needle nose pliers to remove the nails and old glazing points.
Pictured below is an old glazing point (or something like that).
Once the hardware has been taken out, it’s time to remove the glass panes.
*Note: PLEASE remember to be careful and wear protective eye goggles and gloves and for this part so that you don’t cut yourself!
I recommend trying to gently pry the glass out with a flat head screwdriver first to see if you can get them out.
If that doesn’t do the trick, then you may have to break the glass.
TIP: I used a rubber mallet wrapped with paper towels. You can also try a hammer wrapped with a rag.
Just gently tap your mallet in the center of the glass to break it.
At this stage, I set my window frames to the side.
Then I carefully rolled up the plastic (with all of the broken glass), and put it all into a box for recycling.
Now, it’s time to get your frames ready to be sanded and cleaned. (I do not have a picture of this part – sorry!
Then I wiped the window frames down with damp rags.
Here pictured below, is what they looked like at this stage.
Now, it will be time to paint your frames GOLD. Finally!!
This is my favorite gold spray paint.
Spread out your new plastic floor covering outside (if you haven’t already done so), and prop up your window frames onto some old wooden blocks or paint cans.
Just simply spray paint your window frames – using long sweeping strokes.
Make sure to get into all of the top and bottom portions of each pane.
Now, spray paint the second frame and let both of the frames dry for 30 minutes.
Then, paint a second coat and let them dry for a couple of hours.
Once your frames are dry, turn them over so that you can add the hanging hardware to the back side.
***This is the time to figure out if you want to hang your window frames vertical or horizontal.
So, now you will measure where you want your d-ring to go, and use your screwdriver to insert it into your frame.
***NOTE: Just make sure that whatever nail or screw you use, that they are shorter than the frame depth, or they will go poke through the frame. 😉
I’m sure you already knew this, but hey – better safe than sorry!!
Repeat these steps onto the other side, and hang them!!
So, here they are in my house……for now – hint-hint!!
I’m still trying to figure out if I want them in the entry with my freshly painted black console table??
And/or if I want to leave them open (as is), or add botanical prints?
I’ve had this faux bamboo mirror for a long time, and knew it needed a little makeover. It was painted turquoise/blue during my “painted furniture booth” days, and I have been waiting for some inspiration before I changed it again. But it had to be budget-friendly, easy, and quick? So, for roughly $12 and a 2-day DIY painting project, it has undergone a complete transformation. Who knew that a Good Will $50 thrifted mirror could look so chic – all with some bronze and gold spray paint? Here is Faux Bamboo Mirror Makeover: (Gold Spray Paint).
*To see before and after pictures of the mirror (completely done) – scroll to the very end of the post.
***Note*** This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links. Please see my privacy and disclosure policies below. Thanks for your support. 🙂
I just wanted to go over some common questions that you may have. So if any of these sound familiar, you’re in the right spot.
Ok, let’s get to the supplies I used.
***Just a little FYI: The champagne bronze (left) is the main color of the frame, but I used a little gold metallic (right) paint on top – just to give it a little metallic shimmer.***
Ok, let’s get to the faux bamboo mirror makeover (gold spray paint)!
You will simply remove the mirror (if you can), and wipe down your frame with a rag.
You just want to make for sure that you’re removing any dust, dirt, or grime from the frame surface.
Next, go ahead and put your plastic floor covering down to protect the ground, and use pieces of scrap wood (or paint cans) to lift the mirror frame off of the ground.
This will help make for sure that your mirror frame doesn’t stick to the plastic, and that air can get underneath it to help it dry faster.
Now, just begin spray painting the frame with the champagne bronze in long sweeping motions.
Make sure to do all sides.
TIP: I like to do a North, East, South, West pattern – just to make sure that I don’t forget a side.
Or think of it as: do the top portion, then left side, then bottom, then right side.
Here is the top portion – north view (going up).
And here is the top portion – south view (going down).
Don’t forget to get into all of the nooks and crannies with the faux bamboo or chinoiserie chic style (like this circle).
And these pineapple-shaped accents (or whatever your bamboo mirror may have).
After you spray paint the front part, let it dry for about 20-30 minutes, or dry to the touch.
Then, flip it over and spray paint the back side – ONLY the parts that you might see from the front side though.
No reason to waist paint or time – right?
This is the only tricky part of this DIY project, so just decide what works best for you.
You can also lie it back down flat and do any touch-ups at this stage.
The worst thing for me is to:
So trust me – get it completely done the first time around!
Let it dry 30 minutes.
***Note: If you love your frame right now – as is -, then you are done!!
So, what the heck is a “dry” trial run?
When I brought the painted mirror into our house, I realized it was a little too bronze (dark) for me personally.
TIP: Here is my little system to double check my paint “work.”
I tried the mirror color on our:
The reason I do this trial run is to make for sure that the paint color will work in different rooms of our house if/when (LOL) I decide to move it.
So, this next part is optional.
I simply added a very small amount of Gold Metallic spray paint – in that gently sweeping motion – over the front side of the frame.
It just gives the frame a little more “shimmer” versus the vintage/antique tone of the champagne bronze.
But it’s totally up to you.
Then you can put your mirror back into the frame and enjoy!!
Here it is below, with the mirror in and painted with the bronze and metallic gold.
Above: Do you see the pink flowers in the bottom/middle of picture above – yep – that’s my phone.
Ok, let’s get to some before and after mirror makeover pictures.
Before: Goodbye Turquoise Blue
And After: Hello Gold Beauty
After Decorated: Full Hallway View
After: Closeup View
Can you see the subtle “metallic” shimmer?
Well, what do you think? Much classier now- right?
I hope that you have found some inspiration or spray painting ideas to get those creative juices going!
Now, you just have to decide how MANY things you’re going to paint gold!
I am so excited to share this new whitewash painting technique and coffee table makeover with you! If you’ve been to the blog before, you know that I love to paint. I have already painted our master bedroom dresser and bed frame in another whitewash/dry-brushed method, and today I’ll be showing you how to whitewash your coffee table (with the new method). Plus, there are tons of helpful tips and pictures to guide you through the process and make it easy as possible. Here is Whitewash Furniture DIY: Coffee Table Makeover.
Scroll to the very end of the post to see:
*** This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure and privacy policies down below for more information. Thanks so much for your support 🙂 ***
Here are some pictures of the primer and paint that I used.
#1: What kind of paint do you use for whitewashing?
I use satin, latex paint for both of my white-washing techniques:
#2: Do you sand your furniture before whitewash painting?
I did not sand my coffee table before painting:
#3: What level of difficulty is this particular painting job?
This is a intermediate-difficult painting job/method:
You got this – let’s get to it!!
Cheat Sheet/Painting Playbook:
Ok, let’s get to the tutorial! Whitewash Furniture DIY: Coffee Table Makeover.
Here are a couple of before pictures of our black farmhouse coffee table so you can see what it used to look like.
Now it’s time to prime your coffee table using your 2″ angled paint brush.
I also like to prop up my furniture on some old wood blocks or paint cans – just to lift it up off of the floor.
I like to leave some of my darker furniture color (black) poking through a little, so I do not completely cover it.
*Let it dry for about an hour before adding the 2nd coat.
Here it is with the primer – 1st coat.
After you have let it dry for an hour, go ahead and add a second coat of the primer.
In the picture below, the left side has the 2nd coat of primer on it, and the right side only has the 1st coat of primer.
I just wanted to show you the difference.
Here below, is the picture with the 2nd coat of primer.
Scroll back up so that you can see the difference in the 1st coat of primer picture, and this 2nd coat of primer picture. Can you see the difference?
*Let the 2nd primer coat – dry overnight.
Now that you have let your coffee table dry overnight, it’s time to paint it with your white paint.
I used Behr Swiss Coffee for this whitewash method, because I wanted it to have a creamier-tan base.
This step requires only one coat of paint.
*Let Dry at least 4 hours.
In the picture below, you can see that the front part of the lower shelf has been painted, and the back part has not been painted.
Now, if you scroll back up to the 2nd coat of primer picture, you can tell that the color now has a creamier-white appearance.
Taking you economy brush (or wax brush), go ahead and add the dark wax to your coffee table. Then wipe it off with your t-shirt or rag.
You won’t want to wipe the wax completely off, but just leave some stroke marks – kind of like wood grain.
And remember to wipe in the direction of the wood grain of your table.
Don’t forget to get under the top “lip” of your coffee table and the sides also.
I’m sure you already knew this, but I’ve definitely skipped some spots – trust me!! LOL!!
Once you’ve double (or triple) checked yourself, go ahead and add the dark wax to the top section now.
Like I mentioned above, just remember to always wipe off in the direction of the wood grain.
And here is what it will look like at this stage.
*Let this dry overnight. Don’t rush this step for sure.
Once you’re dark wax has dried overnight, it’s time to add the clear wax.
This is an easy step – finally!!
Just apply the clear wax with your sponge (or brush), let it sit for 15-30 mins, and then wipe it off with a rag.
It should buff out to a little shimmer/sheen when you are done.
*Let this dry 30 minutes or go directly into the next step.
Hang in there!! I know that this is just about the time that you’re starting to get a little annoyed with the process, but you’re on the home stretch.
You can begin this step almost right after step #4 – adding clear wax.
Now you will use the Swiss Coffee White paint again, but just keep your brush dry.
Basically, you will dip your brush into your paint, wipe it off on a rag, and then brush it on in streaks.
You will keep dry-brushing the paint on in streaks until you achieve the “whitewash” color you want.
This process WILL take a little while – just a FYI. It’s not difficult, but does require some time.
I wanted my table to have a layered look, so I kept adding more white paint to achieve that “washed” appearance.
Here is what it will look like after I kept adding more…. and more paint. See how the dark wax “look” peeks through the white – in streaks?
And it has a “golden tan” kind of color. Very soft and subtle -right?
What a difference! Here it is before I did the drawers. The drawer looks so tan against the whitewash table.
*Let this dry overnight.
You will use the same method as before for applying wax, let it sit for 30 minutes, and then buff it off with a rag.
If not go right into step #7: sanding.
For this part, take a 150-grit piece of sandpaper, and gently sand the coffee table and drawers.
This will work best if you sand down edges and corners in random sections so that it’s looks naturally scuffed.
Then sand down the top and bottom shelves too.
Remember how I said in the beginning that I wanted some of my black to show through? This is where it ties all together.
if WHEN it gets bumped or scratched – it will just look more “loved!!”
Add your clear wax, let it sit 30 minutes, and buff off to your preferred sheen.
*I recommend waiting 72 hours before putting anything on TOP of your coffee table.
Add some fun gold knobs for a coastal farmhouse/boho look….. or add some rubbed-oiled bronze or black hardware pulls for a modern farmhouse/cottage style look.
What do you think? I love all of the movement and “layers” it has – to give it that weathered and whitewash look!
Here are some before and after pictures of our whitewash coffee table makeover.
*Scroll to the very end to see the 2 whitewashing methods together picture.
If you are loving the all-white lamp look, you are in the right spot. This stylish white lamp base + white lamp shade combination fits into every decor style, and continues to show up in the most popular pinterest feeds. The look can be modern and trendy, yet classic, crisp, and clean. Just choose your favorite lamp base shape and lamp shade style, and give your room an instant update. Now you just have to decide if you’ll use them for function as bedside lamps or living room accent lighting, to create ambiance in the dining room, or give personality to your entry way. Lets get to it! Here are my picks for the 14 Best White Table Lamps.
*Updated: June 2021
***NOTE*** This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links. Please see my privacy and disclosure policies below. Thanks so much for your support. 🙂
If you have visited the blog before, you probably noticed that I do have a” thang” for white lamps. I like how versatile they are, and love that it doesn’t cost a ton of money to change out the shades.
Plus all of mine are different heights, styles, and shapes making it easy to change the look of a room quickly.
That’s always a huge benefit if you like to switch out home decor often like me. 😉
Here are some of my white lamps.
Master Bedroom: white lamp base + white lampshade
Living Room: white lamp base + oatmeal color lampshade
Living Room: white lamp base + green striped lamp shade
Entryway/Foyer: white lamp base + burlap lampshade
Dining Room: white lamp base + navy geometric lampshade
So, whether you’re style is coastal farmhouse, boho chic, mid-century modern, art deco – or somewhere in between, there’s a little something for everyone.
Who’s ready? Let’s get to the 14 best white table lamps!!
This stunning pair of white lamps is a perfect combination of modern, yet classic style. The glazed ceramic base paired with the clean lines of the white drum shade will add soft sophistication to any room and decor style.
*** This is a set ***
Dimensions Overall : 25.25” H x 13” W x 13” D
*** This is for one lamp ***
Add a touch of elegance with this beautiful white glass lamp with the double gourd base and cotton drum shade. This style works perfect for an entryway console table or master bedroom bedside table.
Price: $97.36 for one
Dimensions Overall : 23.5” H x 13” W x 13” D
OPTION 2: Pair – here
If you’re looking for a taller, more substantial lamp this set is a great choice. The smooth gourde shape and tapered empire shade add a little personality and touch of whimsy as well. The acrylic base and finial add just the right modern touch.
Dimensions Overall : 32” H x 17” W x 17” D
OPTION 2: Here
If you want a more vintage feel with a contemporary twist, this white lamp is the way to go. The geometric ceramic base pairs nicely with the tapered drum shade, giving it a trendier vibe. This lamp works great when you need to add a little architectural interest to a minimalist room style.
Price: $137.99 for one lamp
Dimensions Overall : 28.38” H x 15” W x 15” D
If you like a little drama & want to make statement, this taller white lamp pair will do the trick! The modern silhouette pairs beautifully with the traditional brass finial and base – giving it just the right amount of playful sophistication.
Dimensions Overall : 30” H x 15” W x 15” D
*** This lamp is cream-colored ***
I just had to add this lamp – even though it has a creamier base color. The soft, subtle color and shape of this lamp – makes it easy to use in any room or decorating style. Try it in your entryway, office, or living room where you need a little ambiance.
Dimensions Overall : 27” H x 14” W x 14” D
OPTION 2: Here
This white lamp pair leans a little more modern with the textured pattern and shape of the lamp base. It gives off a fun, playful vibe without losing any sophistication. These are perfect for adding interest to console tables, buffets, or even sofa tables.
Dimensions Overall : 24” H x 13” W x 13” D
The stunning shape of these lamps really make a statement and is sure to draw some attention. They would fit great into modern coastal, transitional, and traditional style homes as well. They have a white-washed base with a striped edging that adds some texture to the lamp base.
Dimensions Overall : 28.5” H x 16” W x 16” D
This sweet lamp is perfect for you shabby chic, French country or farmhouse style lovers. They have a white-washed base that resembles an old porch column and a tapered shade. These would be perfect in an entryway, office, or small reading nook/corner.
Dimensions Overall : 25″H x 13” W x 13” D
OPTION 2: Pair – here
*** This is for one lamp ***
This white lamp is a little more expensive than the other lamps, but it is a showstopper!! The textured shape of the urn is absolutely stunning, and the brass finial and base just compliment the entire look. This is a great choice if you’re needing a large white lamp that gives off a quiet, polished sophistication.
Dimensions Overall : 28.5” H x 19” W x 19”
*** This is a white-washed lamp ***
I just could not complete my favorite lamps list without including a white-washed stunner!! For those of you who love the coastal look or maybe even a coastal farmhouse style, this is a great choice. It is more gray-ish white in appearance to create a softer “white” look.
Dimensions Overall : 30” H x 15” W x 15” D
*** This lamp is off-white, this is for one lamp ***
Price: $73.99 (large 25″H)) – $58.99 (small 18″H)
Dimensions Overall : (large 25″H x 13″W x 13″D), (small 11”W x 11”D x 18.3”H)
*** This is for one lamp***
Add architectural interest with this open base beauty. This is a perfect choice for both modern farmhouse, coastal, or even mid-century style fanatics. What a fun lamp -right?
Dimensions Overall : 25.5” H x 14” W x 14” D
This alabaster marble lamp by Safavieh is simply stunning. It has a sleek a-line base that will elevate any console table, nightstand, or buffet that it is placed upon.
Dimensions Overall : 29.25″H x 23″W x 11″D
I hope you found one or two that you love. If you have any questions or need help, just let me know.
As you know, I have had the coastal farmhouse look in my bedroom for awhile now with my favorite spa blue urn lamps on the nightstands. But I wanted to change up the color palette in here, and knew that those lamps would need a little update. Since I am in this “white love” phase, the decision to paint the lamps white was easy….the process – not-so-much!! HaHa! Now that I worked out ALL of the kinks…. I can show you the best, simplified way to hand paint lamp bases white. Here is DIY Ceramic Lamp Makeover: Painted White.
NOTE: This post contains affiliate links for your shopping convenience. Please see my disclosure and privacy policies below. Thanks so much for your support. 🙂
Over the years, I have painted every single type of lamp base. And at least half of all of the lamps in our house have been painted at least once- lol!!
But I know that this may be the first time for some of you to try it out, and you may be a little unsure.
Here are some very common questions that many of you might have, so I went ahead and did a question/answer portion below.
This takes maybe 15 minutes, but is the most important part.
NOTE: I taped off the base and neck/stem of my lamp (but then ended up priming both of these – so just ignore that part).
When using latex paint, you must prime your lamp base and finial first. Since my lamps were spa blue, I painted 2 coats of primer to get rid of as much blue as I could.
*** If you choose to spray paint or use oil-based paint on your lamps, you do not have to do this part. But I still would recommend it (personally) because the paint just sticks better on the ceramic.
This paint is OIL-BASED, so make sure you have some mineral spirits to clean with.
I used a foam brush so that it I could just throw it away. Brush on the white-wash paint, let it sit for about 3 minutes, and then wipe off gently with a paper towel.
Make sure to work in small sections and don’t put too much paint onto your brush because it is thinner (runnier) than latex paint.
Let dry overnight, then paint second coat.
If painting is just not your thing? Try 14 Best White Table Lamps – only clicking is needed LOL!
If you’re coming over from 15 Best Round Mirrors, welcome! You’ve seen some inspiration photos, know what mirror style you want, know which room you want to put it in, and now you’re ready to seal the deal. This post will help you get the look you’re going for with budget-friendly options. Here is 15 Top-Rated Round Mirrors: Find Your Style.
Round mirrors come in many different styles and are perfect for entryways, bathrooms, dining rooms, living rooms, and even home offices. They are also versatile in how you style them: use just one to make a big statement, or display them in a group.
Here are some of MY round mirrors – I love them too!
In the Entry:
In the powder bathroom:
In the dining room:
Even on sconces…..Yep I’m in love!!
*** This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure and privacy policies below on bottom menu. Thanks for your support 🙂 ***
Let’s get to the good stuff.
Recommended Posts to Try:
Now, that I have posted our Home Tour: Coastal Farmhouse Master Bedroom, it is time to share my white-washed dresser makeover with you – woohoo!! It’s about time – right? I know lots of you have been wanting to learn how to white-wash furniture, so this tutorial will give you everything you need to know. Plus, this is a budget-friendly way to update an existing piece of furniture (even better). So, let’s get to it!! Painting 101: White-Washed Dresser Tutorial.
If you want to see my white-washed bed click Master Bed Frame Makeover: Painted White or glazed white nightstands click Nightstands Makeover: Painted White with Black Top.
I get asked quite often about different painting techniques, waxing, sanding, etc. that I use when painting furniture.
But the one method that comes up the most in discussion is how to get the white-washed “look.” So, what is the white-washed technique anyway?
It’s basically a painting method that allows you to see part of the furniture peeking through (like you “wiped” something off with a rag, but the rag left some of the liquid behind).
This leftover “residue” would be “streaked” because of the motion of the rag (washed), giving it a “dulled or milky” appearance. Does that make sense?
#1 White-Washed Method. In this method, the paint is diluted with water to make it runnier; therefore, making it easier to wipe off with a rag.
The paint mixture is usually 3 parts paint to 1 part water ratio (3:1 ratio). This technique works best when you are trying to “barely” change the color of the wood.
It will basically “lighten” the existing wood tone. The more coats you put on, the less wood that shows through.
The cons of this method is that it is VERY messy, and also VERY time consuming if not done correctly. Thus….. alternate method #2 – dry-brushing.
#2 Dry-Brushed Method. This is the method that I use most often to get the white-washed look. In this method, you will not dilute the paint with water but you will use a rag to get the excess paint off of your brush.
Basically, you are working with a “DRY-BRUSH” (one with little paint on it) – get it? HUH? You dip your paint into the paint can, get a SMALL amount of paint onto the brush, then WIPE OFF the excess paint each time.
This dry-brush (with little paint on it) allows the paint to come out in “streaks.” ***I will explain more below when you can see the pictures, but I just wanted to give you a brief description.***
***NOTE***This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links. See my privacy and disclosure policies below for more info. Thanks for your support.***
So, here it is again – before…..
Remove all of the hardware from your dresser, and wipe down dresser with a rag. Make sure to wipe down all of the drawers and inside the dresser also.
Set up your canvas or plastic drop cloth, and make sure you are in a well ventilated area (like outside or in your garage).
Prop your dresser up onto wooden blocks or paint cans to lift it off of the ground. You do not want it sitting directly on your painting surface.
Obviously……I needed to put down something in my garage -picture above – but I’ve painted so many pieces that I got lazy. DON’T BE ME – lol!!
NOTE: I did not sand this piece down (prior to painting) because my primer bonds really well to the furniture surface. You can sand it down first if you choose…but why do the extra step if you don’t need to -haha!!
If you just feel like you need to sand it down, then I would recommend sanding down the top part only.
Put a small amount of primer onto your paint brush, wipe off excess onto rag and begin gently brushing your primer onto your dresser.
You will need several rags for this process, as the paint will begin to soak through.
***TIP***The less paint you put onto the brush, the less messy it will be. HINT-HINT!
See pictures below. Here is what the priming stage looks like.
***TIP*** Use long, quick brush strokes and make sure to gently brush the primer on. You will not want to fully cover your piece – should look streaked like these pictures.
FULLY PRIMED CLOSEUP
Why am I showing so many pictures? LOL!! Once you get this priming stage done, the painting steps are much easier.
Plus I just wanted to stress that you are “not fully” covering your piece with paint – just streaks of paint.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Now you will do the exact same method, but just using your white paint. I used Behr Swiss Coffee from Home Depot for my white paint color.
Dip your brush into the paint, wipe off excess with rag, then gently brush on. You will do TWO coats of this method.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT – BETWEEN 2 COATS***
Here it is with the primed picture compared to the painted (2 coats) picture. I just wanted you to be able to see the difference.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
While you are waiting for the dresser to dry, go ahead and prep area to paint your hardware. Put plastic down on the ground, and lie your hardware onto wooden blocks or cardboard.
I always use wooden pieces from leftover projects (can you tell – lol) for mine, but just use something to lift them above the plastic.
Spray your hardware making sure to get the inside areas as well. Wait at least 30 mins then flip them over and spray the back side. Once again, make sure to get “all” areas of the hardware.
***TIP*** I spray all sides from the left, then spray from the top, then spray from the right, and then from the bottom. This way, I make sure I don’t miss any of the spots. Trust me, it is the worst feeling EVER!! to finally think you have finished your painted dresser, ONLY to realize that 2 or 3 of the hardware pulls did not fully get covered – ugh!! Out comes the plastic, spray paint, clean up, and TIME – all again. Make your life easier by just doing it right the first time!!
Here are some closeup pictures so you can see the brass color of the original hardware (left below) and then the oil-rubbed bronze color after it is spray painted.
***TIP*** If you have brass hardware and spray them with either bronze or black paint, you can gently sand down the edges of the pulls to get an antiqued look (the brass peaks through).
This turns out REALLY pretty!! I’ve done it many, many times – I just wasn’t going for that “antique-y” look on this particular piece. Give it a try if that’s what you’re going for.
Flip them over one more time (top side up), and gently spray again. This will ensure that ALL sides are covered.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Put the 1st coat of wax on with the sponge that’s included (or rag), let sit at least 15 minutes, and wipe off to buff. This stage is always where the magic happens – am I right?
It’s like the wax joins everything together, and makes it look a-ma-zing!!
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Use the 150-grit sandpaper to lightly distress areas of the dresser where normal wear and tear would occur naturally over time.
I distressed my dresser on random places at the feet, on edges of some of the drawers, and on the top section and edge(rim).
Repeat the same process again with the wax for the entire dresser. Let dry overnight.
Then put ONE more coat of wax on the TOP portion only.
So the entire dresser will have 2 coats total, and the TOP portion will have 3 coats total.
***LET DRY 2 DAYS BEFORE PUTTING DECOR ON TOP***
***LET DRY 2 DAYS BEFORE PUTTING DECOR ON TOP***
To see more of our master bedroom makeover and master bathroom makeover click:
Have any questions? I’d love to help out any way I can.
If you are loving the round mirror trend, and are looking for some inspiration – this is the post for you. There is something about the round mirror design: the soft shape that allows the eye to move effortlessly around the room, and really makes a statement all at the same time. Plus, you can use them in every room of your house. Win-Win!! So, here are my picks for the 15 BEST Round Mirrors.
Looking to shop round mirrors, click 15 Top-Rated Round Mirrors: Find Your Style.
As you go through the inspiration pictures, here are some things to consider.
Whatever your style, your budget, or room you want to use it……there IS a Round Mirror For You!!
Isn’t this entry styled by Paloma Contreras just stunning? This large brass round mirror is definitely a show stopper, and grabs your attention as soon as you walk in the door.
It fits perfectly into the custom square wainscoting, and really softens all of the straight lines in the room.
This bedroom styled by Amy with Homey Oh My is simplistic, modern perfection. I love the contrast of the black round mirror against all of the the bright white accessories and wall paint.
The bohemian diamond rug really pulls the room together, and helps make the black mirror pop!
This stunning German Schmear fall-inspired fireplace is just so inviting. I do not know who styled it, but it is one of my all time favorites pictures.
This round gold mirror adds the perfect metal element to all of the brick, wood mantel, and neutral fall accessories. It unites all of the warm tones used: tans, browns, and reds.
Click here for more brick fireplace inspiration.
Ummmm…..Yes Please!! All I can is Wow! This bathroom by Amber Interiors is definitely numero uno for me personally.
The blue patterned tile and vanity really ground the style of the bathroom, and the gold round mirror, hardware, & cabinet pulls add the perfect touch of simple glam.
This pair of oil-rubbed bronze mirrors really add a whimsical touch to this elegant bathroom designed by Joanna Gaines.
The bronze color helps tie the cabinet hardware together and brings a more rustic farmhouse look to the bathroom. And using them as a pair adds a little understated drama – that Joanna is famous for.
This fun white “waves” round mirror brings a playful touch to the sophisticated styling of this Hamptons House bathroom. It also adds a more modern approach to the typical round nautical style mirror.
The white mirror pops off of the navy blue wallpaper, white marble vanity, and chrome fixtures.
Of course I have to admit that I do LOVE this one as well – probably because – it’s mine – LOL!! This is a mirror that I purchased from Hobby Lobby years ago, that got a little white distressed paint “makeover.”
The raised inner and outer edges really give it a ton of texture, and the distressed look adds the coastal farmhouse style I have throughout our house.
Click here for the distressed white mirror tutorial.
This happy entry by Better Homes & Gardens – post for wallpaper calculator – blends a variety of styles.
This large bronze mirror has an industrial style that contrasts with the traditional sconces, farmhouse stool, and yellow wallpaper with Moroccan motif.
The natural warm tones of this wooden round mirror tone down the sophisticated elegance of the navy trellis wallpaper – via Dering Hall.
This bamboo beauty unites the wooden elements (small powder bath vanity) together, giving it a more modern vibe.
This gorgeous coastal entry designed by Blackband Design, features a stunning thin-rimmed black metal over-sized mirror.
Isn’t it amazing how each of these round mirrors can be paired with ANY style, or ANY room in your house, and still look fabulous? No wonder they are so popular and a now a decorating staple.
This round mirror definitely leans to the coastal/nautical style with it’s woven rope design. It adds a ton of texture to the smooth clean lines of this elegant powder bathroom.
It also brings a lot of character to the space and a no-fuss, relaxed coastal vibe as well.
When you need a little drama……you’re welcome!! Isn’t this pair of hanging round mirrors simply stunning? The Serras Hotel has it going on – right?
I love how the mirror are suspended from the ceiling, but hang over (or in front of) a very large mirror to create layers of drama. You have to look good in at least ONE of the angles 😉
This pair of champagne-colored mirrors have that same “wavy” pattern like pic #6 above, but give off more of a coastal glam style here in this bathroom.
The metallic shimmer and shape adds some whimsy to the plain round mirrors, and adds texture to the clean linear subway tile accent wall.
This has been one of my favorite styled modern farmhouse living rooms (and most popular pins) designed and styled by CC+Mike.
I love that they propped this smaller gold round metal mirror on the mantel, where it simply leans gracefully against the fireplace wall.
It looks so effortless, yet simply perfect!
Sometimes you just have to hang something on a wall, take a step backwards and look at it, and then pat yourself on the back – Lauren Conrad!! What a beautiful mirror and master bathroom!
This brass round mirror is the perfect addition to complete this elegantly designed bathroom. It ties all of the other gold elements together and softens all of the hard lines.
So, which one is your favorite?? I’d love to hear some feedback from you? My absolute favorite is NO. 4 – just love how happy that room makes me feel!
Looking to shop round mirrors, click 15 Top-Rated Round Mirrors: Find Your Style.
Want More Decorating Inspiration, click:
So, we have finally moved back into our bedroom downstairs…..and I am so excited about how the entire bedroom turned out. The 2 things that “make” the bedroom and create some drama are the navy accent wall, and the white bed frame. And since I painted the bed, I thought it would be awesome to show you the technique if you want to change your bed also. Here is my master bed frame makeover – painted white using the dry-brushed technique tutorial. If you want a glazed or antiqued tutorial (like my nightstands)…..click HERE. Want to see my master bath makeover, click Master Bathroom Remodel: Hardware Bling.
***NOTE***This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from my website, at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support 🙂
Where did it all begin?
Put your primer on in long brush strokes, making sure not to cover your bed in a solid paint color. See below.
Do the same technique for footboard and side rails if you have them.
*** LET PRIMER DRY OVERNIGHT***
Put your first coat of white paint over primer in long brush strokes again, but this time covering more of the wood.
BELOW: left side painted….right sight primed
You should be able to notice that the paint covers better than the primer, and it should feel thicker as you brush it on. Just make sure NOT to cover the wood completely. You should still be able to see brush strokes.
BELOW: PICTURE OF 1ST COAT PAINTED
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
BELOW: Headboard 3 coats, Footboard 2 coats. Can you tell how the headboard has more coverage on it than the footboard?
***TIP*** This is the stage/step where I go back and add in some paint to cover certain areas that do no look as even. This is just personal preference for me.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Now you can put on your wax, let dry, and rag/buff off.
Put on more coats of wax if you want a shinier finish- just fyi.
Use your 150-grit sandpaper or sponge and gently sand over random areas where you want some original wood to show.
I like my sanded areas to be over the ornate “leaves” sections to accent the details, and then over the corners where the bed would naturally get “bumped”.
I also added some sanded areas in the middle sections of the headboard and footboard to move the eye around.
***OPTIONAL STEP*** WAX OVER SANDED AREAS. I like to do this just to bring out the wood tone (the wax makes the wood tone darker for more contrast) against the white paint.
But of course, this is your bed, so it is your decison!!
Hope you love how your bed turns out….as much as I love mine!! Let me know how your progress is going- or if you have any questions?
I would love to see some pictures of your bed too!!
I really feel like I got new furniture…without the high pricetag!!
Plus the white really lifts the room so much more than the stained brown color, and it gives me the contrast I need against the navy wall. Don’t cha think ??
Need more painting inspiration, check out:
Have you been wanting new nightstands in your master or guest bedroom, but can’t seem to pull the trigger because your “old ones”….well… they’re still good??!! I mean…..they aren’t terrible or anything (well maybe), but they are definitely not the style or look you are going for?? Yep….get in line. It’s really difficult to drop several hundred dollars for something you already own…but just have grown tired of. So, what’s a girl to do??? I found myself in the same dilemma. I really couldn’t alter the style on these bad boys (and I soooo would have), but at least I could do something about the look. If you find yourself in a similar situation (enter in a little paint, glaze, & some extra time out of your schedule), and you can change your nightstands too. DIY Nightstand Makeover: Painted White with Dark Top. So, let’s refresh those “oldies, but goodies” nightstands of your’s and give them the makeover they deserve!! *** I used latex paint on these, but you could use chalk paint, and just skip some of my first steps ***
This post contains affiliate links which means that I may receive a small commission if you purchase something from these links, at no cost to you. Thanks for your support!! 🙂
1. 3 Paintbrushes- (1 for primer/white paint, 1 for black paint, 1 for glaze/wax)
2. Primer – Zinnser
3. Paint- Behr Swiss Coffee 1 quart (Home Depot Brand)
5. Clear Wax – Trewax
7. Spray Paint – Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint
8. Rags and T-shirt rags – Rags….. T-shirts– (for wiping dust, glaze/wax off)
10. Wooden blocks (or something to put nightstand feet on & hardware on)
11. Painter’s Tape – Scotch Blue
12. Black Paint for Top- sample size or 1 quart Behr (Home Depot)
Here is the Behr Whites Collection (brochure) from Home Depot.
I just wanted to show you what Behr Swiss Coffee looks like with other “whites.”
Since whites have a hint of another color added – you can see the subtle shades of yellows, browns, grays, greens, etc in the picture…. that is what the undertone looks like.
I see a hint of pink…what do you see?
Ok, let’s get to the tutorial!
Take hardware off, and put to the side for now. I had to tape off my marble top, but you will not need this step if you have a wooden top until STEP 4.
Tear off a small square from the 150 sandpaper sheet (or sponge), and sand the nightstands and drawers. You don’t have to sand a lot, just enough to get some of the topcoat off.
You can see in the pictures below the light yellow color…..that’s the what the topcoat looks like when sanded. Wipe off the dust with a clean rag.
If it has a lot of grooves like mine, blow the dust off or use a vaccuum to get the hard-to-reach dust particles.
*** If using chalk paint, skip to step 4. ***
Put your canvas drop cloth down, and set up your wooden blocks first. (As you can tell from my garage….I no longer put a drop cloth down. But you should -LOL ).
I primed these using the Zinnser primer – one coat only. I did not completely paint these solid with the primer, so it will have some brush marks in it.
This is my personal preference. (It makes more grooves like real wood would have, instead of a flat, smooth finish).
Also prime the portion between the drawers and sides of where the drawers slide in…..see pictures below.. Let Dry Overnight.
***TOP PORTION TIP*** If you have a wooden top, prime it also.
***If using chalk paint, skip to step 4***
Make sure you fill in ALL crevices if you want to do the glazing/waxing part.
And prime the drawers….paint in horizontal (longways) brush strokes .
Prime your TOP section last.
For this part I used latex paint Behr Swiss Coffee – one coat. You can use chalk paint. (If you use chalk paint, do 2 coats of paint. )
The one coat of latex paint should cover more than just the primer. You can see below LEFT that the corner section is painted, but the side is primed.
In the picture on the RIGHT it is completely painted.
Let Dry Overnight before glazing.
***TIP*** Let Dry 4 hours before adding black paint to TOP *** (I did not have this step, but wanted to make sure you let the white paint dry before adding black paint to top).
Below right painted, below left primed only.
Both painted with drawers below.
Paint top with black paint (your choice) to get the dark top, white bottom two-toned look like mine. It will go over primer.
How many coats?
One coat – if you want a charcoal- grayish look. Two coats – if you want a darker black look.
***TIP*** Be careful not to drip black paint on your white sections 😉
Let All Dry Overnight.
Use that same 150 grit sandpaper sheet/sponge and sand around edges of nightstand feet, corners of drawers, and a couple of random areas that would get more wear and tear.
I also sanded my drawers in a horizontal direction to create lines on my drawers. I like a messier look to my furniture, so it is your choice.
***TIP*** If you have a wooden top, sand around the edges in corner spots, and then on the top piece if you want a more distressed look.
***TIP*** Do not sand (leave solid) if you want a clean, smooth top.
I used the Rust Oleum Java Brown Glaze, and put it on with a 3rd paint brush or glaze/wax brush. (You could use the Howard Dark Oak wax or another dark wax here if you prefer another color.)
This java brown has a golden tone in it, and it was the “look” that I needed for this painting method. Work in small sections….I chose a portion of the side panel first.
Brush it on quickly – cover it all– then quickly rub off in small circular strokes with your t-shirt rag (or old t-shirt if you have one).
These t-shirts are nice and soft and take off the perfect amount of glaze without leaving “scratch” marks. Let Dry Overnight.
FYI *** I did not wax first before I put my glaze on….like I normally would *** This is so the glaze actually changes the color of the paint – see picture 2 below.
***TIP*** Glaze the TOP section (on top of black) LAST. The glaze will soften the black and give it a bronze look (black-brown-golden)***
The pictures below – right one is glazed, left one has not been done yet. You can see the “golden” tint here on right.
Using your yellow sponge, get a little clear wax and begin to wipe wax on with circular motions.
***TIP*** After I put the wax on, I very lightly go over it with the sponge in straight lines, so that it does not dry in the circular patterns.
The wax dries in about 15 mins, so try to put the wax on in small sections.
You will notice that some of the glaze is coming off a little, and that is normal.
Once you do finish the first nightstand, go ahead and wax the other nightstand, drawers, and tops.
*** Immediately after you finish everything, take a new, clean rag and wipe everything down.
***TIP*** You will begin to see a shine appear as you continue wiping. At first, it will be more difficult to wipe (feels thick), but then will get easier as you are taking more wax residue off. You are basically buffing your nightstands.
.Go ahead to the next step- You do not have to wait overnight for this step.
*** Put painter’s tape between top and sides before beginning next step. ***
Go back and put another LIGHT paint coat on with your swiss coffee paint. When you dip your brush into the can, don’t get a lot of paint on the brush.
Start with a smaller amount and paint over your waxed nightstand. It will go on very smoothly because you just buffed it with your rag.
***TIP*** You can control how much paint you want to use to cover some of your glaze. How much white do you want to show?
If you want your nightstands whiter, add more paint. If you want a more glazed look, use less paint on this part.
FYI- I wanted mine to be whiter so it would look “aged” more naturally in the crevices. Let Dry Overnight.
***TIP*** DO NOT GET WHITE PAINT ON YOUR BLACK TOP. USE PAINTER’S TAPE TO HELP
Can you tell how the bottom picture has a more “golden” tone than the top picture? Keep adding paint until you get the shade you like.
Lightly sand over those spots you have already sanded…..just enough to uncover some of those areas that might have been painted with the second coat.
Should just be a touch-up. The top section does not need more sanding.
Do the clear wax one more time, and buff again. Same as step 7. Go ahead and take the painter’s tape off and wax the TOP section again.
It will need additional protection.
Put down your plastic, and lie your hardware front side up on something to lift it up from the ground. I always use some extra pieces of boards that I have left over from other projects.
Spray with the Oil Rubbed Bronze paint…..let dry at least 30 mins. Turn upside down and spray back side….let dry 30 mins.
Turn back over to right side up again. Let Dry Overnight or wait at least 2- 4 hours. FYI – there is so much hardware because I was painting my dresser at the same time.
And it has a ton of hardware. See below for a sneak peek of it.
Picture below is front side up – sprayed.
Picture below -has one side front side up painted (right), the other side flipped to the back side not painted (left).
You can see the original goldish color on the back side.
Now….go back and spray lightly one more time with the right side showing. This is just a touch-up, but important to do. Let dry for an hour and put back on your nightstands.
***TIP*** When you spray hardware….spray FOUR different directions. Spray upward direction, downwards, right, and left.
The worst feeling it to THINK you are all done and patting yourself on the back….only to realize that half of the hardware didn’t get sprayed.
You then have to take the hardware off again, set up your prep area again, spray again, let dry again, and then put back on AGAIN!!
Trust me….it’s just worth the trouble to do it right the first time. That is why I turn mine upside down….because you spray other angles that would not have gotten sprayed right side up!!
YOU ARE DONE MY FRIEND!!
Bring out the champagne and celebrate….CHEERS!!
Here is a sneak preview of my dresser that I finished. It is painted differently than the nightstands, so I’ll post that tutorial soon.
Want more painting tips?