21 results found.
21 results found.
I am so excited to share this new whitewash painting technique and coffee table makeover with you! If you’ve been to the blog before, you know that I love to paint. I have already painted our master bedroom dresser and bed frame in another whitewash/dry-brushed method, and today I’ll be showing you how to whitewash your coffee table (with the new method). Plus, there are tons of helpful tips and pictures to guide you through the process and make it easy as possible. Here is Whitewash Furniture DIY: Coffee Table Makeover.
Scroll to the very end of the post to see:
*** This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure and privacy policies down below for more information. Thanks so much for your support 🙂 ***
Here are some pictures of the primer and paint that I used.
#1: What kind of paint do you use for whitewashing?
I use satin, latex paint for both of my white-washing techniques:
#2: Do you sand your furniture before whitewash painting?
I did not sand my coffee table before painting:
#3: What level of difficulty is this particular painting job?
This is a intermediate-difficult painting job/method:
You got this – let’s get to it!!
Cheat Sheet/Painting Playbook:
Ok, let’s get to the tutorial! Whitewash Furniture DIY: Coffee Table Makeover.
Here are a couple of before pictures of our black farmhouse coffee table so you can see what it used to look like.
Now it’s time to prime your coffee table using your 2″ angled paint brush.
I also like to prop up my furniture on some old wood blocks or paint cans – just to lift it up off of the floor.
I like to leave some of my darker furniture color (black) poking through a little, so I do not completely cover it.
*Let it dry for about an hour before adding the 2nd coat.
Here it is with the primer – 1st coat.
After you have let it dry for an hour, go ahead and add a second coat of the primer.
In the picture below, the left side has the 2nd coat of primer on it, and the right side only has the 1st coat of primer.
I just wanted to show you the difference.
Here below, is the picture with the 2nd coat of primer.
Scroll back up so that you can see the difference in the 1st coat of primer picture, and this 2nd coat of primer picture. Can you see the difference?
*Let the 2nd primer coat – dry overnight.
Now that you have let your coffee table dry overnight, it’s time to paint it with your white paint.
I used Behr Swiss Coffee for this whitewash method, because I wanted it to have a creamier-tan base.
This step requires only one coat of paint.
*Let Dry at least 4 hours.
In the picture below, you can see that the front part of the lower shelf has been painted, and the back part has not been painted.
Now, if you scroll back up to the 2nd coat of primer picture, you can tell that the color now has a creamier-white appearance.
Taking you economy brush (or wax brush), go ahead and add the dark wax to your coffee table. Then wipe it off with your t-shirt or rag.
You won’t want to wipe the wax completely off, but just leave some stroke marks – kind of like wood grain.
And remember to wipe in the direction of the wood grain of your table.
Don’t forget to get under the top “lip” of your coffee table and the sides also.
I’m sure you already knew this, but I’ve definitely skipped some spots – trust me!! LOL!!
Once you’ve double (or triple) checked yourself, go ahead and add the dark wax to the top section now.
Like I mentioned above, just remember to always wipe off in the direction of the wood grain.
And here is what it will look like at this stage.
*Let this dry overnight. Don’t rush this step for sure.
Once you’re dark wax has dried overnight, it’s time to add the clear wax.
This is an easy step – finally!!
Just apply the clear wax with your sponge (or brush), let it sit for 15-30 mins, and then wipe it off with a rag.
It should buff out to a little shimmer/sheen when you are done.
*Let this dry 30 minutes or go directly into the next step.
Hang in there!! I know that this is just about the time that you’re starting to get a little annoyed with the process, but you’re on the home stretch.
You can begin this step almost right after step #4 – adding clear wax.
Now you will use the Swiss Coffee White paint again, but just keep your brush dry.
Basically, you will dip your brush into your paint, wipe it off on a rag, and then brush it on in streaks.
You will keep dry-brushing the paint on in streaks until you achieve the “whitewash” color you want.
This process WILL take a little while – just a FYI. It’s not difficult, but does require some time.
I wanted my table to have a layered look, so I kept adding more white paint to achieve that “washed” appearance.
Here is what it will look like after I kept adding more…. and more paint. See how the dark wax “look” peeks through the white – in streaks?
And it has a “golden tan” kind of color. Very soft and subtle -right?
What a difference! Here it is before I did the drawers. The drawer looks so tan against the whitewash table.
*Let this dry overnight.
You will use the same method as before for applying wax, let it sit for 30 minutes, and then buff it off with a rag.
If not go right into step #7: sanding.
For this part, take a 150-grit piece of sandpaper, and gently sand the coffee table and drawers.
This will work best if you sand down edges and corners in random sections so that it’s looks naturally scuffed.
Then sand down the top and bottom shelves too.
Remember how I said in the beginning that I wanted some of my black to show through? This is where it ties all together.
if WHEN it gets bumped or scratched – it will just look more “loved!!”
Add your clear wax, let it sit 30 minutes, and buff off to your preferred sheen.
*I recommend waiting 72 hours before putting anything on TOP of your coffee table.
Add some fun gold knobs for a coastal farmhouse/boho look….. or add some rubbed-oiled bronze or black hardware pulls for a modern farmhouse/cottage style look.
What do you think? I love all of the movement and “layers” it has – to give it that weathered and whitewash look!
Here are some before and after pictures of our whitewash coffee table makeover.
*Scroll to the very end to see the 2 whitewashing methods together picture.
If you are loving the all-white lamp look, you are in the right spot. This stylish white lamp base + white lamp shade combination fits into every decor style, and continues to show up in the most popular pinterest feeds. The look can be modern and trendy, yet classic, crisp, and clean. Just choose your favorite lamp base shape and lamp shade style, and give your room an instant update. Now you just have to decide if you’ll use them for function as bedside lamps or living room accent lighting, to create ambiance in the dining room, or give personality to your entry way. Lets get to it! Here are my picks for the 14 Best White Table Lamps.
***NOTE*** This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links. Please see my privacy and disclosure policies below. Thanks so much for your support. 🙂
If you have visited the blog before, you probably noticed that I do have a” thang” for white lamps. I like how versatile they are, and love that it doesn’t cost a ton of money to change out the shades.
Plus all of mine are different heights, styles, and shapes making it easy to change the look of a room quickly.
That’s always a huge benefit if you like to switch out home decor often like me. 😉
Here are some of my white lamps.
Master Bedroom: white lamp base + white lampshade
Living Room: white lamp base + oatmeal color lampshade
Living Room: white lamp base + green striped lamp shade
Entryway/Foyer: white lamp base + burlap lampshade
Dining Room: white lamp base + navy geometric lampshade
So, whether you’re style is coastal farmhouse, boho chic, mid-century modern, art deco – or somewhere in between, there’s a little something for everyone.
Who’s ready? Let’s get to the 14 best white table lamps!!
This stunning pair of white lamps is a perfect combination of modern, yet classic style. The glazed ceramic base paired with the clean lines of the white drum shade will add soft sophistication to any room and decor style.
*** This is a set ***
Dimensions Overall : 25.25” H x 13” W x 13” D
*** This is for one lamp ***
Add a touch of elegance with this beautiful white glass lamp with the double gourd base and cotton drum shade. This style works perfect for an entryway console table or master bedroom bedside table.
Price: $54.99 for one
Dimensions Overall : 23.5” H x 13” W x 13” D
If you’re looking for a taller, more substantial lamp this set is a great choice. The smooth gourde shape and tapered empire shade add a little personality and touch of whimsy as well. The acrylic base and finial add just the right modern touch.
Dimensions Overall : 32” H x 17” W x 17” D
If you want a more contemporary feel, this white lamp pair is the way to go. The geometric ceramic base pairs nicely with the tapered drum shade, giving it a trendier vibe. These work great when you need to add a little architectural interest to a minimalist room style.
Dimensions Overall : 25” H x 13” W x 13” D
If you like a little drama & want to make statement, this taller white lamp pair will do the trick! The modern silhouette pairs beautifully with the traditional brass finial and base – giving it just the right amount of playful sophistication.
Dimensions Overall : 30” H x 15” W x 15” D
*** This pair is cream-colored ***
I just had to add this adorable white/cream lamp set – even though it has a creamier look. The soft whimsical curves of the base with the empire shade is just so precious and fun! These would make a great addition to the entryway, office, or living room where you want a pop of “happy!”
Dimensions Overall : 24” H x 14” W x 14” D
This white lamp pair leans a little more modern with the textured pattern and shape of the lamp base. It gives off a fun, playful vibe without losing any sophistication. These are perfect for adding interest to console tables, buffets, or even sofa tables.
Dimensions Overall : 24” H x 13” W x 13” D
The stunning shape of these lamps really make a statement and are sure to draw some attention. They would fit great into mid-century modern styles and traditional style homes as well. They have a textured ceramic base that adds a little texture to their sleek curves.
Dimensions Overall : 22.25” H x 12” W x 12” D
These smaller lamps are perfect when you need to fill a more compact space. The three-tier shape adds a trendy modern vibe, and the nickel base and finial give it an elegant feel. These would be perfect in an entryway, office, or small reading nook/corner.
Dimensions Overall : 20” H x 11” W x 11” D
*** This is for one lamp ***
This white lamp is a little more expensive than the other lamps, but it is a showstopper!! The textured shape of the urn is absolutely stunning, and the brass finial and base just compliment the entire look. This is a great choice if you’re needing a large white lamp that gives off a quiet, polished sophistication.
Dimensions Overall : 27.5” H x 15” W x 15” D
*** This is a white-washed lamp ***
I just could not complete my favorite lamps list without including a white-washed stunner!! For those of you who love the coastal look or maybe even a coastal farmhouse style, this is a great choice. It is more gray-ish white in appearance to create a softer “white” look.
Dimensions Overall : 30” H x 15” W x 15” D
*** This lamp is off-white, this is for one lamp ***
Price: $68.56 (large 25″H)) – $54.55 (small 18″H)
Dimensions Overall : (large 25″H x 13″W x 13″D), (small 11”W x 11”D x 18.3”H)
*** This is for one lamp***
Add architectural interest with this open base beauty. This is a perfect choice for both modern farmhouse, coastal, or even mid-century style fanatics. What a fun lamp -right?
Dimensions Overall : 25.5” H x 14” W x 14” D
I just had to include this white lamp to the list because it’s just so sassy and I love it! This lamp is perfect for offices, kids’ bedrooms, dorm rooms, craft rooms, and even living room work spaces.
Now that more of us are working from home, lighting has become much more important.
Dimensions Overall : 21” H x 6.25” W x 12.75” D
I hope you found one or two that you love. If you have any questions or need help, just let me know.
As you know, I have had the coastal farmhouse look in my bedroom for awhile now with my favorite spa blue urn lamps on the nightstands. But I wanted to change up the color palette in here, and knew that those lamps would need a little update. Since I am in this “white love” phase, the decision to paint the lamps white was easy….the process – not-so-much!! HaHa! Now that I worked out ALL of the kinks…. I can show you the best, simplified way to hand paint lamp bases white. Here is DIY Ceramic Lamp Makeover: Painted White.
NOTE: This post contains affiliate links for your shopping convenience. Please see my disclosure and privacy policies below. Thanks so much for your support. 🙂
Over the years, I have painted every single type of lamp base. And at least half of all of the lamps in our house have been painted at least once- lol!!
But I know that this may be the first time for some of you to try it out, and you may be a little unsure.
Here are some very common questions that many of you might have, so I went ahead and did a question/answer portion below.
This takes maybe 15 minutes, but is the most important part.
NOTE: I taped off the base and neck/stem of my lamp (but then ended up priming both of these – so just ignore that part).
When using latex paint, you must prime your lamp base and finial first. Since my lamps were spa blue, I painted 2 coats of primer to get rid of as much blue as I could.
*** If you choose to spray paint or use oil-based paint on your lamps, you do not have to do this part. But I still would recommend it (personally) because the paint just sticks better on the ceramic.
This paint is OIL-BASED, so make sure you have some mineral spirits to clean with.
I used a foam brush so that it I could just throw it away. Brush on the white-wash paint, let it sit for about 3 minutes, and then wipe off gently with a paper towel.
Make sure to work in small sections and don’t put too much paint onto your brush because it is thinner (runnier) than latex paint.
Let dry overnight, then paint second coat.
If painting is just not your thing? Try 14 Best White Table Lamps – only clicking is needed LOL!
If you’re coming over from 15 Best Round Mirrors, welcome! You’ve seen some inspiration photos, know what mirror style you want, know which room you want to put it in, and now you’re ready to seal the deal. This post will help you get the look you’re going for with budget-friendly options. Here is 15 Top-Rated Round Mirrors: Find Your Style.
Round mirrors come in many different styles and are perfect for entryways, bathrooms, dining rooms, living rooms, and even home offices. They are also versatile in how you style them: use just one to make a big statement, or display them in a group.
Here are some of MY round mirrors – I love them too!
In the Entry:
In the powder bathroom:
In the dining room:
Even on sconces…..Yep I’m in love!!
*** This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure and privacy policies below on bottom menu. Thanks for your support 🙂 ***
Let’s get to the good stuff.
Recommended Posts to Try:
Now, that I have posted our Home Tour: Coastal Farmhouse Master Bedroom, it is time to share my white-washed dresser makeover with you – woohoo!! It’s about time – right? I know lots of you have been wanting to learn how to white-wash furniture, so this tutorial will give you everything you need to know. Plus, this is a budget-friendly way to update an existing piece of furniture (even better). So, let’s get to it!! Painting 101: White-Washed Dresser Tutorial.
If you want to see my white-washed bed click Master Bed Frame Makeover: Painted White or glazed white nightstands click Nightstands Makeover: Painted White with Black Top.
I get asked quite often about different painting techniques, waxing, sanding, etc. that I use when painting furniture.
But the one method that comes up the most in discussion is how to get the white-washed “look.” So, what is the white-washed technique anyway?
It’s basically a painting method that allows you to see part of the furniture peeking through (like you “wiped” something off with a rag, but the rag left some of the liquid behind).
This leftover “residue” would be “streaked” because of the motion of the rag (washed), giving it a “dulled or milky” appearance. Does that make sense?
#1 White-Washed Method. In this method, the paint is diluted with water to make it runnier; therefore, making it easier to wipe off with a rag.
The paint mixture is usually 3 parts paint to 1 part water ratio (3:1 ratio). This technique works best when you are trying to “barely” change the color of the wood.
It will basically “lighten” the existing wood tone. The more coats you put on, the less wood that shows through.
The cons of this method is that it is VERY messy, and also VERY time consuming if not done correctly. Thus….. alternate method #2 – dry-brushing.
#2 Dry-Brushed Method. This is the method that I use most often to get the white-washed look. In this method, you will not dilute the paint with water but you will use a rag to get the excess paint off of your brush.
Basically, you are working with a “DRY-BRUSH” (one with little paint on it) – get it? HUH? You dip your paint into the paint can, get a SMALL amount of paint onto the brush, then WIPE OFF the excess paint each time.
This dry-brush (with little paint on it) allows the paint to come out in “streaks.” ***I will explain more below when you can see the pictures, but I just wanted to give you a brief description.***
***NOTE***This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from these links. See my privacy and disclosure policies below for more info. Thanks for your support.***
So, here it is again – before…..
Remove all of the hardware from your dresser, and wipe down dresser with a rag. Make sure to wipe down all of the drawers and inside the dresser also.
Set up your canvas or plastic drop cloth, and make sure you are in a well ventilated area (like outside or in your garage).
Prop your dresser up onto wooden blocks or paint cans to lift it off of the ground. You do not want it sitting directly on your painting surface.
Obviously……I needed to put down something in my garage -picture above – but I’ve painted so many pieces that I got lazy. DON’T BE ME – lol!!
NOTE: I did not sand this piece down (prior to painting) because my primer bonds really well to the furniture surface. You can sand it down first if you choose…but why do the extra step if you don’t need to -haha!!
If you just feel like you need to sand it down, then I would recommend sanding down the top part only.
Put a small amount of primer onto your paint brush, wipe off excess onto rag and begin gently brushing your primer onto your dresser.
You will need several rags for this process, as the paint will begin to soak through.
***TIP***The less paint you put onto the brush, the less messy it will be. HINT-HINT!
See pictures below. Here is what the priming stage looks like.
***TIP*** Use long, quick brush strokes and make sure to gently brush the primer on. You will not want to fully cover your piece – should look streaked like these pictures.
FULLY PRIMED CLOSEUP
Why am I showing so many pictures? LOL!! Once you get this priming stage done, the painting steps are much easier.
Plus I just wanted to stress that you are “not fully” covering your piece with paint – just streaks of paint.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Now you will do the exact same method, but just using your white paint. I used Behr Swiss Coffee from Home Depot for my white paint color.
Dip your brush into the paint, wipe off excess with rag, then gently brush on. You will do TWO coats of this method.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT – BETWEEN 2 COATS***
Here it is with the primed picture compared to the painted (2 coats) picture. I just wanted you to be able to see the difference.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
While you are waiting for the dresser to dry, go ahead and prep area to paint your hardware. Put plastic down on the ground, and lie your hardware onto wooden blocks or cardboard.
I always use wooden pieces from leftover projects (can you tell – lol) for mine, but just use something to lift them above the plastic.
Spray your hardware making sure to get the inside areas as well. Wait at least 30 mins then flip them over and spray the back side. Once again, make sure to get “all” areas of the hardware.
***TIP*** I spray all sides from the left, then spray from the top, then spray from the right, and then from the bottom. This way, I make sure I don’t miss any of the spots. Trust me, it is the worst feeling EVER!! to finally think you have finished your painted dresser, ONLY to realize that 2 or 3 of the hardware pulls did not fully get covered – ugh!! Out comes the plastic, spray paint, clean up, and TIME – all again. Make your life easier by just doing it right the first time!!
Here are some closeup pictures so you can see the brass color of the original hardware (left below) and then the oil-rubbed bronze color after it is spray painted.
***TIP*** If you have brass hardware and spray them with either bronze or black paint, you can gently sand down the edges of the pulls to get an antiqued look (the brass peaks through).
This turns out REALLY pretty!! I’ve done it many, many times – I just wasn’t going for that “antique-y” look on this particular piece. Give it a try if that’s what you’re going for.
Flip them over one more time (top side up), and gently spray again. This will ensure that ALL sides are covered.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Put the 1st coat of wax on with the sponge that’s included (or rag), let sit at least 15 minutes, and wipe off to buff. This stage is always where the magic happens – am I right?
It’s like the wax joins everything together, and makes it look a-ma-zing!!
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Use the 150-grit sandpaper to lightly distress areas of the dresser where normal wear and tear would occur naturally over time.
I distressed my dresser on random places at the feet, on edges of some of the drawers, and on the top section and edge(rim).
Repeat the same process again with the wax for the entire dresser. Let dry overnight.
Then put ONE more coat of wax on the TOP portion only.
So the entire dresser will have 2 coats total, and the TOP portion will have 3 coats total.
***LET DRY 2 DAYS BEFORE PUTTING DECOR ON TOP***
***LET DRY 2 DAYS BEFORE PUTTING DECOR ON TOP***
To see more of our master bedroom makeover and master bathroom makeover click:
Have any questions? I’d love to help out any way I can.
If you are loving the round mirror trend, and are looking for some inspiration – this is the post for you. There is something about the round mirror design: the soft shape that allows the eye to move effortlessly around the room, and really makes a statement all at the same time. Plus, you can use them in every room of your house. Win-Win!! So, here are my picks for the 15 BEST Round Mirrors.
Looking to shop round mirrors, click 15 Top-Rated Round Mirrors: Find Your Style.
As you go through the inspiration pictures, here are some things to consider.
Whatever your style, your budget, or room you want to use it……there IS a Round Mirror For You!!
Isn’t this entry styled by Paloma Contreras just stunning? This large brass round mirror is definitely a show stopper, and grabs your attention as soon as you walk in the door.
It fits perfectly into the custom square wainscoting, and really softens all of the straight lines in the room.
This bedroom styled by Amy with Homey Oh My is simplistic, modern perfection. I love the contrast of the black round mirror against all of the the bright white accessories and wall paint.
The bohemian diamond rug really pulls the room together, and helps make the black mirror pop!
This stunning German Schmear fall-inspired fireplace is just so inviting. I do not know who styled it, but it is one of my all time favorites pictures.
This round gold mirror adds the perfect metal element to all of the brick, wood mantel, and neutral fall accessories. It unites all of the warm tones used: tans, browns, and reds.
Click here for more brick fireplace inspiration.
Ummmm…..Yes Please!! All I can is Wow! This bathroom by Amber Interiors is definitely numero uno for me personally.
The blue patterned tile and vanity really ground the style of the bathroom, and the gold round mirror, hardware, & cabinet pulls add the perfect touch of simple glam.
This pair of oil-rubbed bronze mirrors really add a whimsical touch to this elegant bathroom designed by Joanna Gaines.
The bronze color helps tie the cabinet hardware together and brings a more rustic farmhouse look to the bathroom. And using them as a pair adds a little understated drama – that Joanna is famous for.
This fun white “waves” round mirror brings a playful touch to the sophisticated styling of this Hamptons House bathroom. It also adds a more modern approach to the typical round nautical style mirror.
The white mirror pops off of the navy blue wallpaper, white marble vanity, and chrome fixtures.
Of course I have to admit that I do LOVE this one as well – probably because – it’s mine – LOL!! This is a mirror that I purchased from Hobby Lobby years ago, that got a little white distressed paint “makeover.”
The raised inner and outer edges really give it a ton of texture, and the distressed look adds the coastal farmhouse style I have throughout our house.
Click here for the distressed white mirror tutorial.
This happy entry by Better Homes & Gardens – post for wallpaper calculator – blends a variety of styles.
This large bronze mirror has an industrial style that contrasts with the traditional sconces, farmhouse stool, and yellow wallpaper with Moroccan motif.
The natural warm tones of this wooden round mirror tone down the sophisticated elegance of the navy trellis wallpaper – via Dering Hall.
This bamboo beauty unites the wooden elements (small powder bath vanity) together, giving it a more modern vibe.
This gorgeous coastal entry designed by Blackband Design, features a stunning thin-rimmed black metal over-sized mirror.
Isn’t it amazing how each of these round mirrors can be paired with ANY style, or ANY room in your house, and still look fabulous? No wonder they are so popular and a now a decorating staple.
This round mirror definitely leans to the coastal/nautical style with it’s woven rope design. It adds a ton of texture to the smooth clean lines of this elegant powder bathroom.
It also brings a lot of character to the space and a no-fuss, relaxed coastal vibe as well.
When you need a little drama……you’re welcome!! Isn’t this pair of hanging round mirrors simply stunning? The Serras Hotel has it going on – right?
I love how the mirror are suspended from the ceiling, but hang over (or in front of) a very large mirror to create layers of drama. You have to look good in at least ONE of the angles 😉
This pair of champagne-colored mirrors have that same “wavy” pattern like pic #6 above, but give off more of a coastal glam style here in this bathroom.
The metallic shimmer and shape adds some whimsy to the plain round mirrors, and adds texture to the clean linear subway tile accent wall.
This has been one of my favorite styled modern farmhouse living rooms (and most popular pins) designed and styled by CC+Mike.
I love that they propped this smaller gold round metal mirror on the mantel, where it simply leans gracefully against the fireplace wall.
It looks so effortless, yet simply perfect!
Sometimes you just have to hang something on a wall, take a step backwards and look at it, and then pat yourself on the back – Lauren Conrad!! What a beautiful mirror and master bathroom!
This brass round mirror is the perfect addition to complete this elegantly designed bathroom. It ties all of the other gold elements together and softens all of the hard lines.
So, which one is your favorite?? I’d love to hear some feedback from you? My absolute favorite is NO. 4 – just love how happy that room makes me feel!
Looking to shop round mirrors, click 15 Top-Rated Round Mirrors: Find Your Style.
Want More Decorating Inspiration, click:
So, we have finally moved back into our bedroom downstairs…..and I am so excited about how the entire bedroom turned out. The 2 things that “make” the bedroom and create some drama are the navy accent wall, and the white bed frame. And since I painted the bed, I thought it would be awesome to show you the technique if you want to change your bed also. Here is my master bed frame makeover – painted white using the dry-brushed technique tutorial. If you want a glazed or antiqued tutorial (like my nightstands)…..click HERE. Want to see my master bath makeover, click Master Bathroom Remodel: Hardware Bling.
***NOTE***This post contains affiliate links which means that I will receive a small compensation if you purchase something from my website, at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support 🙂
Where did it all begin?
Put your primer on in long brush strokes, making sure not to cover your bed in a solid paint color. See below.
Do the same technique for footboard and side rails if you have them.
*** LET PRIMER DRY OVERNIGHT***
Put your first coat of white paint over primer in long brush strokes again, but this time covering more of the wood.
BELOW: left side painted….right sight primed
You should be able to notice that the paint covers better than the primer, and it should feel thicker as you brush it on. Just make sure NOT to cover the wood completely. You should still be able to see brush strokes.
BELOW: PICTURE OF 1ST COAT PAINTED
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
BELOW: Headboard 3 coats, Footboard 2 coats. Can you tell how the headboard has more coverage on it than the footboard?
***TIP*** This is the stage/step where I go back and add in some paint to cover certain areas that do no look as even. This is just personal preference for me.
***LET DRY OVERNIGHT***
Now you can put on your wax, let dry, and rag/buff off.
Put on more coats of wax if you want a shinier finish- just fyi.
Use your 150-grit sandpaper or sponge and gently sand over random areas where you want some original wood to show.
I like my sanded areas to be over the ornate “leaves” sections to accent the details, and then over the corners where the bed would naturally get “bumped”.
I also added some sanded areas in the middle sections of the headboard and footboard to move the eye around.
***OPTIONAL STEP*** WAX OVER SANDED AREAS. I like to do this just to bring out the wood tone (the wax makes the wood tone darker for more contrast) against the white paint.
But of course, this is your bed, so it is your decison!!
Hope you love how your bed turns out….as much as I love mine!! Let me know how your progress is going- or if you have any questions?
I would love to see some pictures of your bed too!!
I really feel like I got new furniture…without the high pricetag!!
Plus the white really lifts the room so much more than the stained brown color, and it gives me the contrast I need against the navy wall. Don’t cha think ??
Need more painting inspiration, check out:
Have you been wanting new nightstands in your master or guest bedroom, but can’t seem to pull the trigger because your “old ones”….well… they’re still good??!! I mean…..they aren’t terrible or anything (well maybe), but they are definitely not the style or look you are going for?? Yep….get in line. It’s really difficult to drop several hundred dollars for something you already own…but just have grown tired of. So, what’s a girl to do??? I found myself in the same dilemma. I really couldn’t alter the style on these bad boys (and I soooo would have), but at least I could do something about the look. If you find yourself in a similar situation (enter in a little paint, glaze, & some extra time out of your schedule), and you can change your nightstands too. DIY Nightstand Makeover: Painted White with Dark Top. So, let’s refresh those “oldies, but goodies” nightstands of your’s and give them the makeover they deserve!! *** I used latex paint on these, but you could use chalk paint, and just skip some of my first steps ***
This post contains affiliate links which means that I may receive a small commission if you purchase something from these links, at no cost to you. Thanks for your support!! 🙂
1. 3 Paintbrushes- (1 for primer/white paint, 1 for black paint, 1 for glaze/wax)
2. Primer – Zinnser
3. Paint- Behr Swiss Coffee 1 quart (Home Depot Brand)
5. Clear Wax – Trewax
7. Spray Paint – Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint
8. Rags and T-shirt rags – Rags….. T-shirts– (for wiping dust, glaze/wax off)
10. Wooden blocks (or something to put nightstand feet on & hardware on)
11. Painter’s Tape – Scotch Blue
12. Black Paint for Top- sample size or 1 quart Behr (Home Depot)
Here is the Behr Whites Collection (brochure) from Home Depot.
I just wanted to show you what Behr Swiss Coffee looks like with other “whites.”
Since whites have a hint of another color added – you can see the subtle shades of yellows, browns, grays, greens, etc in the picture…. that is what the undertone looks like.
I see a hint of pink…what do you see?
Ok, let’s get to the tutorial!
Take hardware off, and put to the side for now. I had to tape off my marble top, but you will not need this step if you have a wooden top until STEP 4.
Tear off a small square from the 150 sandpaper sheet (or sponge), and sand the nightstands and drawers. You don’t have to sand a lot, just enough to get some of the topcoat off.
You can see in the pictures below the light yellow color…..that’s the what the topcoat looks like when sanded. Wipe off the dust with a clean rag.
If it has a lot of grooves like mine, blow the dust off or use a vaccuum to get the hard-to-reach dust particles.
*** If using chalk paint, skip to step 4. ***
Put your canvas drop cloth down, and set up your wooden blocks first. (As you can tell from my garage….I no longer put a drop cloth down. But you should -LOL ).
I primed these using the Zinnser primer – one coat only. I did not completely paint these solid with the primer, so it will have some brush marks in it.
This is my personal preference. (It makes more grooves like real wood would have, instead of a flat, smooth finish).
Also prime the portion between the drawers and sides of where the drawers slide in…..see pictures below.. Let Dry Overnight.
***TOP PORTION TIP*** If you have a wooden top, prime it also.
***If using chalk paint, skip to step 4***
Make sure you fill in ALL crevices if you want to do the glazing/waxing part.
And prime the drawers….paint in horizontal (longways) brush strokes .
Prime your TOP section last.
For this part I used latex paint Behr Swiss Coffee – one coat. You can use chalk paint. (If you use chalk paint, do 2 coats of paint. )
The one coat of latex paint should cover more than just the primer. You can see below LEFT that the corner section is painted, but the side is primed.
In the picture on the RIGHT it is completely painted.
Let Dry Overnight before glazing.
***TIP*** Let Dry 4 hours before adding black paint to TOP *** (I did not have this step, but wanted to make sure you let the white paint dry before adding black paint to top).
Below right painted, below left primed only.
Both painted with drawers below.
Paint top with black paint (your choice) to get the dark top, white bottom two-toned look like mine. It will go over primer.
How many coats?
One coat – if you want a charcoal- grayish look. Two coats – if you want a darker black look.
***TIP*** Be careful not to drip black paint on your white sections 😉
Let All Dry Overnight.
Use that same 150 grit sandpaper sheet/sponge and sand around edges of nightstand feet, corners of drawers, and a couple of random areas that would get more wear and tear.
I also sanded my drawers in a horizontal direction to create lines on my drawers. I like a messier look to my furniture, so it is your choice.
***TIP*** If you have a wooden top, sand around the edges in corner spots, and then on the top piece if you want a more distressed look.
***TIP*** Do not sand (leave solid) if you want a clean, smooth top.
I used the Rust Oleum Java Brown Glaze, and put it on with a 3rd paint brush or glaze/wax brush. (You could use the Howard Dark Oak wax or another dark wax here if you prefer another color.)
This java brown has a golden tone in it, and it was the “look” that I needed for this painting method. Work in small sections….I chose a portion of the side panel first.
Brush it on quickly – cover it all– then quickly rub off in small circular strokes with your t-shirt rag (or old t-shirt if you have one).
These t-shirts are nice and soft and take off the perfect amount of glaze without leaving “scratch” marks. Let Dry Overnight.
FYI *** I did not wax first before I put my glaze on….like I normally would *** This is so the glaze actually changes the color of the paint – see picture 2 below.
***TIP*** Glaze the TOP section (on top of black) LAST. The glaze will soften the black and give it a bronze look (black-brown-golden)***
The pictures below – right one is glazed, left one has not been done yet. You can see the “golden” tint here on right.
Using your yellow sponge, get a little clear wax and begin to wipe wax on with circular motions.
***TIP*** After I put the wax on, I very lightly go over it with the sponge in straight lines, so that it does not dry in the circular patterns.
The wax dries in about 15 mins, so try to put the wax on in small sections.
You will notice that some of the glaze is coming off a little, and that is normal.
Once you do finish the first nightstand, go ahead and wax the other nightstand, drawers, and tops.
*** Immediately after you finish everything, take a new, clean rag and wipe everything down.
***TIP*** You will begin to see a shine appear as you continue wiping. At first, it will be more difficult to wipe (feels thick), but then will get easier as you are taking more wax residue off. You are basically buffing your nightstands.
.Go ahead to the next step- You do not have to wait overnight for this step.
*** Put painter’s tape between top and sides before beginning next step. ***
Go back and put another LIGHT paint coat on with your swiss coffee paint. When you dip your brush into the can, don’t get a lot of paint on the brush.
Start with a smaller amount and paint over your waxed nightstand. It will go on very smoothly because you just buffed it with your rag.
***TIP*** You can control how much paint you want to use to cover some of your glaze. How much white do you want to show?
If you want your nightstands whiter, add more paint. If you want a more glazed look, use less paint on this part.
FYI- I wanted mine to be whiter so it would look “aged” more naturally in the crevices. Let Dry Overnight.
***TIP*** DO NOT GET WHITE PAINT ON YOUR BLACK TOP. USE PAINTER’S TAPE TO HELP
Can you tell how the bottom picture has a more “golden” tone than the top picture? Keep adding paint until you get the shade you like.
Lightly sand over those spots you have already sanded…..just enough to uncover some of those areas that might have been painted with the second coat.
Should just be a touch-up. The top section does not need more sanding.
Do the clear wax one more time, and buff again. Same as step 7. Go ahead and take the painter’s tape off and wax the TOP section again.
It will need additional protection.
Put down your plastic, and lie your hardware front side up on something to lift it up from the ground. I always use some extra pieces of boards that I have left over from other projects.
Spray with the Oil Rubbed Bronze paint…..let dry at least 30 mins. Turn upside down and spray back side….let dry 30 mins.
Turn back over to right side up again. Let Dry Overnight or wait at least 2- 4 hours. FYI – there is so much hardware because I was painting my dresser at the same time.
And it has a ton of hardware. See below for a sneak peek of it.
Picture below is front side up – sprayed.
Picture below -has one side front side up painted (right), the other side flipped to the back side not painted (left).
You can see the original goldish color on the back side.
Now….go back and spray lightly one more time with the right side showing. This is just a touch-up, but important to do. Let dry for an hour and put back on your nightstands.
***TIP*** When you spray hardware….spray FOUR different directions. Spray upward direction, downwards, right, and left.
The worst feeling it to THINK you are all done and patting yourself on the back….only to realize that half of the hardware didn’t get sprayed.
You then have to take the hardware off again, set up your prep area again, spray again, let dry again, and then put back on AGAIN!!
Trust me….it’s just worth the trouble to do it right the first time. That is why I turn mine upside down….because you spray other angles that would not have gotten sprayed right side up!!
YOU ARE DONE MY FRIEND!!
Bring out the champagne and celebrate….CHEERS!!
Here is a sneak preview of my dresser that I finished. It is painted differently than the nightstands, so I’ll post that tutorial soon.
Want more painting tips?
So besides me, who is LOVING the white brick fireplace trend??!! It is just so clean and fresh, and can be incorporated into almost any home decor style. I love how the subtle texture of the brick blends with the smooth linear lines of the mantel to create a little piece of quiet drama. 30 Stunning White Brick Fireplace Ideas (Part 1).
And since I just happen to be crushing on this white fireplace style, and we just happen to be remodeling our fireplace ANYWAY…….I thought I would share these 30 stunning white brick fireplace ideas and inspirational pictures with you (in case you are on the fence about having it done or doing it diy style).
*** UPDATE *** Mine is completed. Here’s a little preview….. Scroll to the VERY end to see the front view.
Since I’m loving ALL brick fireplaces right now, I thought I would break these up into 3 posts:
Part 3 shows our shiplap accent wall, painted white brick fireplace surround, and shiplap bookshelf built-in. Check it out!!
As you scroll through the white brick fireplace pictures, you can tell how different all the styles are: modern farmhouse, coastal, boho chic, modern, cottage, traditional, and more. Each fireplace is also one-of-a-kind……don’t we all want to say we have something “custom” in our house? LOL!!
You can do a ton of different looks with the brick: change the direction of the brick pattern, layer it high or keep it low, use as a fireplace surround or as the entire fireplace, keep straight lines or use arches, etc.
Plus if you already have it in your house (& it’s an ugly color because it’s from the 80’s) you change the color by painting it – like…. today!!! WOO-HOO!!
I just have to give a shout out to the QUEEN of white brick fireplace inspiration…..Joanna Gaines!! Everything she does is magical, and the white brick fireplace is no exception!!
Her shiplap and white brick creation is simple perfection, and I love it so much that I am adding it to my house….. even as we speak. I can’t wait to add mine to the mix – making it thirty-ONE white brick fireplaces!!! 😉 ***MINE IS READY – Scroll to the end to see it!!***
If you are looking for more help on this as a diy project, scroll down to the end of the post for some tutorials. These tutorials are not mine or performed by me (just wanted to get that out there), but ones that I recommend for you to try.
Hopefully, theses tutorials will help you decide if this is a diy project you can take on, or something that you should hire out.
So, let’s get rolling….
Isn’t it great how the color and style of the mantel completely sets the tone and style of the room?
It can be painted white for a crisp, clean (modern look), left natural (boho look), stained dark (traditional look), cedar (rustic or modern farmhouse look), hung with corbels (cottage), etc.
The mantels can be prominent or subtle, and sometimes there is no mantel at all. The possibilities are endless!! As you scroll through these, you’ll be able to see the differences.
And you’ll also begin to lean towards one or 2 distinct styles- right??
In Joanna’s fireplace design below, the stained “beefy” mantel is the focal point.
This fireplace is definitely the focal point of Emily Clark’s living room. There are are no bookshelves or built-in cabinets to distract from it’s beauty.
It is basically made from all brick as well. Even the the mantel has 2 brick corbels to hold the wooden mantel – did you catch that?
This white brick fireplace design is created to be the focal point of a “lived in” living room. The open shelves with decor accessories, books, and firewood lean to a more laid back lifestyle.
The bold black and white harlequin tile and the bohemian blue rug bring a fun, playful energy to the room, while adding contrast to the white fireplace.
This arched brick fireplace exudes a very simplistic elegance to the living room. Even the black firescreen is arched to add that touch of class.
Again the mantel is completely white, giving high contrast to the black and white picture gallery placed on top.
Doesn’t this fireplace design just make you smile? It is so simple, yet so striking all at the same time. The mantel is just an old cedar board placed on top of the brick to give a little more room for collectibles.
And then there’s the beautiful painted black hearth to give a focal point to the painted harlequin yellow wood floors.
This is one of my all-time favorites from Joanna and Chip! I love the clean look of the horizontally planked white shiplap overmantel with the brick fireplace surround style.
Even though the design of the actual fireplace is simplistic, the built-in cabinets feature wall really anchor the entire room.
And those custom arched windows- swoon!!
White fireplaces are not limited only to the indoors. Continue the fireplace theme onto an attached outdoor patio, a closed-in sun room or porch, or a detached outdoor kitchen/seating area.
It will add texture to smooth surfaces like concrete and tiled floors, and will create a beautiful ambiance for nighttime entertaining.
Can’t you just see the kiddos toasting marshmallows for s’mores while the adults sip wine? Oh yeah- I’m there!!!
Kristi transformed an outdated brick fireplace, and built this incredible DIY wooden mantel for her client’s home. Complete overhaul!!
The curved hearth makes this living room corner so cozy and inviting. Plus, it’s perfect for little toddlers who make accidentally bump into rough corners.
In this fixer upper design, Joanna kept the fireplace a classic design for the traditional style of the home.
Did you notice that even though the living room is exceptionally large, the fireplace isn’t overly exaggerated to match? It’s a trick on the eyes.
The mantel is wider and the hearth is larger, forcing the eyes to move horizontally (expanding the room) versus vertically (lengthening the room).
You can tell how the different shades of white paint colors (on the fireplace) change the mood and feel of the room as well.
The brighter whites create a “cleaner” formal style (below), whereas the softer whites create a more “relaxed’ style (#12).
This fireplace design is massive and completely becomes the feature wall in this living room. Like #10, the mantel and hearth are wider to lengthen the room horizontally.
But the difference in this ranch-style room, is the addition of the stained beams that run perpendicular to the fireplace wall. Amazing- right?
The beams help draw the eyes up, to visually “lift” the low ceiling height.
What a gorgeous room designed by Sita Montgomery Interiors!! And look at that draw-dropping fireplace.
Can you see how the height of the fireplace also changes the feel of the room?
Lower ceilings and fireplaces lean toward a more casual style (above) and create a cozier environment whereas as a taller fireplace adds more drama and sophistication (below) creating a more formal environment.
BOTH of these rooms are extremely gorgeous…..it just depends on the look you are going for, and the mood you want to create for your home.
This fireplace design features an angled top portion at the ceiling, and is surrounded by beautiful wainscoting on the walls.
Doesn’t this scream co-zy?? It’s clean and striking without being too fussy.
All I can say here is WOW! This is such an understated grand champion. The gentle curves replicated throughout the design are simply stunning!
I also love how there is no mantel on this fireplace, and that it is flanked by 2 large windows.
This keeps the priority of focus on the beautiful scenery of the outdoors, the bead board ceiling above, and the ambiance of the 2 over-sized black lanterns.
And who doesn’t love a fireplace in the dining room? Jade Of Interiors has created a simple design, that delivers a whole lot of punch.
In the picture below, the fireplace does not have a hearth because it is set up to provide warmth and ambiance to the dining room.
It doesn’t need to invite guests to sit down and relax, because they are close enough to the fire while they are sitting in the dining chairs.
In the picture below, the fireplace does have a hearth and is set up for a place to come and “cozy up” in the larger family room. The Gaines’ love family gatherings, and it shows in all of their brick fireplace ideas and designs.
Once again…just depends on the function and style of your room.
Don’t think that white brick designs aren’t suited for contemporary or minimalist styles as well.
By just changing the brick pattern of the top portion of the fireplace (to herringbone), the fireplace adds an entire new dimension to the room.
It now becomes a feature statement instead of a backdrop, in an otherwise minimalist decorated space.
Did you notice how the mantel actually wraps the entire brick fireplace? This is a great idea and way to “expand” your living room (like mentioned above).
The ceiling height is very low, and the wider stained wooden mantel really helps to draw the eye up and out. It’s amazing what you can to trick the eyes – right?
Notice the arch again, and the angled overmantel in the picture below? It really adds a ton of character to this outside fireplace design.
The arch softens all of the other linear elements like the siding, roof, and brick mantel lines. It also adds an “old world” or authentic look to the fireplace-right?
But don’t be fooled….arches can be incorporated into more modern fireplaces too. It just depends on what you do to the rest of the fireplace design that changes the style.
Note the position of the fireplace position in all of the rooms pictured also. Some fireplaces are designed to go in the middle of the room, whereas some are off-centered (picture below) or positioned in the corner of a room.
Some have bookshelves adjoining them, some have windows, some have walls, and some have open spaces (outdoors or two-sided fireplaces).
Each fireplace has it’s own unique look- love this!!
Don’t forget about the inside of the fire box either. The herringbone pattern (above) with the soft or dark yellows hues adds interest and character to a simple fireplace design.
Want it to look more subtle, go with the lighter shades of yellow. Want more drama, go with the darker or brighter shades of yellow (like the last picture by Studio-McGee).
It also creates a natural focal point, drawing the eye down away from the not-so-attractive TV!!! What will they think of next?
This one has a ton of charm. I love that the fireplace appears to sit on top of the shiplap wall instead of designed to be included with the wall.
The mantel also stands alone, which is a very unique feature. Most corbels and mantels are built to fit within the width of the fireplace.
These over-sized corbels actually attach to the shiplap wall, not the fireplace wall. This creates a more authentic look versus a modern look.
This inviting patio is designed with entertaining guests in mind. The tall angled fireplace is built very close to the wall to save room and flanked with 2 gorgeous sconces for night time ambiance.
Unlike the other outdoor fireplaces show above, there is no hearth attached here. This helps to save space when entertaining multiple guests, and helps to keep better traffic flow from dining to living areas.
This fireplace seems to embody the coined term Modern Farmhouse – to me. I feel like Joanna and Chip incorporated all of their design elements into this style.
It has the shiplap paneling, brick surround, wood trim apron and legs, simplistic mantel board, and the black painted firebox.
This fireplace is simple, classy and timeless.
This corner fireplace is definitely a one-of-a-kind design by CC + Mike. What is not to love about it – right?
The corner position makes the room more inviting by opening up the space, and allowing all of the natural light to enter in.
By keeping the corbels white and using a lighter stained rustic mantel, the fireplace takes on a softer, warmer look. This allows the black framed windows and black firebox to “pop” without feeling too stark or cold.
So, I have to admit that this one is my favorite!! It is like a dream design, and love everything Studio-McGee did here!
I love the dramatic height, shiplap overmantel, brick surround, clean wood trim legs, and the gorgeous yellow herringbone firebox.
It is creative and fearless design, and it is perfect!!
All of these white brick fireplaces (and rooms) are just sooooo stunning!! So, which ones are your favorites? Difficult to choose…I hear ya!!
If you would like to learn more about painting your existing fireplace white, read the tutorials below. It’s amazing what some paint can do to transform an out-dated fireplace.
If you have existing brick on your fireplace that you have been wanting to paint white, read the 3 tutorials listed below (just click on the link below the picture).
Each of these tutorials gives great advice and tips to help you through the process, and take your worries away.
No reason to keep that ugly old fireplace anymore…..especially when painted brick fireplaces are on trend. Painting it will lighten your entire room, giving it a much more modern and fresh look, and will change the entire style of your room.
Plus, it will be clean!! Ok- so who’s in?? Try it and let me know how it goes.
Have an old mirror that needs a little makeover or one that’s been damaged in some way? You’re in the right spot! Painting a mirror frame is a very easy and affordable way to update a tired mirror and give it a fresh new look. Distressed Hand Painted White Round Mirror – DIY.
Today, I wanted to share with you this distressed white round mirror that I painted, & show you how to get this look. You can use a mirror you already own, or find the one that I used for this tutorial.
Together we will transform this bronze-colored mirror to a beautiful white, using a little distressed method that I like to do.
So, where do we start? Choose a mirror that you don’t mind changing up (buy one) or one that you’re just simply tired of looking at in it’s present state (one that you already own).
The mirror I painted is from Hobby Lobby……and even though I still think it’s a beautiful mirror as is, I was just ready to move the style/décor of my house into a different direction.
If you wanted to do this mirror, it sells for $139.99 full price . You can wait for the 50% off sale that they do every other week or use their 40% off store coupon, and the price goes down to roughly $75-$85.
Just a FYI- I had this mirror for about 5 yrs, so it was something that I didn’t mind changing. It all depends on what you want to spend (or save).
*** nail hole filler/spackling if doing this exact mirror ***
Most of my supplies for this painted mirror project came from Home Depot and Ace Hardware. Both of these stores are close to my house, and convenience when painting is a huge factor for me.
I also use Sherwin Williams for paint color choices, just not on this project.
Here are some pictures of the supplies with prices to give you an idea of cost (at Home Depot). Remember that all of the supplies can be used for several small projects & you can choose whatever brand/store that you like.
If you get these Behr paint samples (above pictures) at Home Depot, it will help keep prices down. They come in 5 finishes, but I typically use matte flat or flat when painting items.
You can always get sample sizes at Sherwin Williams also.
***NOTE*** If you are doing this exact mirror, continue with step 3. If you are doing a different mirror, skip to step 4.
So you have chosen your mirror, purchased your supplies, and now ready to fill in that outer layer of the mirror. So here is what the outer rim looks like…..kind of like leaves or vines.
Since it had more of a traditional look to it, I decided to change it.
This is where the gloves, nail hole filler, and TIME will come into play. Cut a pretty good chunk off the tip of the tube of nail hole filler so that MORE comes out.
This is important because it will take less time filling in those vine-y areas.
Put your gloves on and start squeezing the tube so that you can fill in that outer area with the pink “goo”, just to the amount you desire. I covered about 1/2 to 3/4 of the vines (just enough so I could not make out those lines exactly……just a personal preference really).
Smooth it out with your gloved fingers, and rinse gloved fingers off when it starts to dry.
This will be time consuming and messy….maybe an hour or more. What I love about this kind of filler is that it starts out pink when wet, and turns white when it is dry. Takes the guessing out of it.
Let dry for 24 hours. If there is still some areas with slight pink in color, don’t worry. It will dry by the next day.
*** You may want a large plastic bowl filled with water and rag to help get nail hole filler off gloved fingers ***
*** If you want more filler on your outer rim, you may also want 2 tubes of nail hole filler ***
Begin priming the mirror with one of your paint brushes, following along with the lines of the mirror. Do not completely cover mirror with primer so that it is solid white – should have some dark streaks in it.
Below: You can see the streaks here (in it’s final state).
Let the primer dry 2-4 hours.
Now add your gray paint and follow those same brush strokes so that you can see just a little white peeking through in some spots. Let dry overnight.
I used (Cathedral Gray- gray paint by Behr) and (Polar Bear- white paint by Behr) for this project.
***TIP*** If you want other shades, I also like (French Silver- gray, and Swiss Coffee-white) – all at Home Depot.
See Below -the picture on left show differences in shades of whites, the picture on right shows difference in shades of gray.
THIS IS IMPORTANT, DO NOT SKIP. Take your clear wax and spread all over your mirror with a sponge or rag. Let dry 20 minutes- then dry off with a rag.
It will have a light sheen after you do this. Waxing will keep the gray paint from coming off when you sand it later.
Now you can paint the mirror with your white paint. Cover it completely with the paint- just not thick. Let it dry overnight.
Use your clear wax again, wait 20 mins, and dry off with your rag. Now add your dark wax, and wipe off immediately…..leaving some spots with dark showing.
I did mine with more dark showing on the vine-y filled outer layer to add depth. If you do not want any dark was/antiquing added, skip this step. Let dry overnight. Dry it off the next day.
*** TIP***I like to use the solo plastic cups and/or Folgers coffee container to put my dark wax brush in . I use these while I am working so that the brush doesn’t get dirty, and also to store my brush in afterwards.
The Folgers container is great because you can cover it with the lid. *** I’m sure these 2 items looked completely ridiculous on the “supplies” list 😉
I got both of these from Ace Hardware, but here they amazon carries them also. They sell for around $15-$20 each.
After you have dried/wiped off the mirror (from dark wax), do another clear wax coat & dry off.
NOW- You can begin sanding immediately after your last waxing/drying off. Start with the 150 grit sanding sheets, and start sanding gently.
Add more pressure if you want more streaks showing (distressing). Use the 80 grit (coarse) for greater distressed look and 220 grit (fine) for less distressed look).
You can use your angled sanding sponge (optional) here to get in between those difficult spots/angles that the sanding sheets can’t get to.
You will do the clear wax one last time- same method. Dry it off to get the sheen you want for your desired look AND…..
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